Unique
The crazy cool show for Topshop’s experimental line was part Where the Wild Things Are -- with models wearing fuzzy eyebrows, deer antlers and furry animal ears -- and part uniform dressing with army green looks and shearling aviator-style jackets. The best part about the collection was the outerwear: a shearling, hooded, navy coat, for example, felt timelessly eccentric.
Mark Fast
So much for all the hoopla about plus-size models. As of now, Mark Fast seems to be the only designer who is using them in any meaningful way, rather than just relegating curvy girls to trend-of-the-month status.
The Canadian once again cast fleshier bodies alongside thin ones in his show. The body types were diverse in an organic way. And the clothes?
His trademark body-hugging cobwebby knits were there. But this time he also incorporated draping inspired by the Art Deco period and shapes that moved away from the body. While Fast deserves many cool points for making samples in a variety of sizes, he should have spent some time thinking about the undergarment problem. The visible panty lines on some models were distracting.
Mary Katrantzou
The designer has earned a cult-following for her trademark use of bold digital prints on figure-flattering dresses. But like many designers who create a strong, singular look, she was in danger of becoming a one-trick pony. She evolved her dresses to include more asymetrical silhouettes, transparency, tiered ruffles and shiny embellishments.
Matthew Williamson
Change is good. Fashion’s favorite nomad is evolving out of the luxe boho globetrotter look that he’s become so famous for (because one can only churn out but so many interpretations of a flowy, ethnic inspired dress). This collection was all civilized tweeds, ruffles and prim trouser suits. He didn’t abandon his formula completely, though. The bright, jewel-toned colour palette and fun, festive party dresses at the end of the show were all quintessential Williamson.
