Cruising into the Central American past

It’s hard to compete with Bingo. Especially on a cruise ship.

For us, illustrated lectures about upcoming countries and ports are just as important as evening entertainment and fine dining. But on a recent cruise to Central America the always popular Bingo games seemed to coincide with the fascinating lectures by Jim Forrester, an historian from Hamilton, Ont.

Forrester just shrugged his shoulders and said,  “That’s life,” as he enthusiastically presented his illustrated talks about Central America to the couple of dozen guests who appreciated his knowledge of the history and geography of Honduras, Guatemala and Belize.

We chose the Norwegian Pearl for the cruise out of Miami mainly because its itinerary was not the usual Caribbean circuit of tropical islands with endless jewellery stores and souvenir shops. Professor Forrester was particularly enthusiastic about our stop at Belize City, the largest community in the country formerly known as British Honduras. Belize is the only English speaking country in Central or South America.

“The British took over a coastal pirate hideout in the mid-1600s,” Forrester said. “They used the town as a base to send mahogany and other precious wood overseas and it grew into a major port. Compared with Honduras, the country is quite prosperous and children are well fed and well educated. ”

Many cruise ship passengers joined us for a 50 km bus ride to the remarkable ruins at Altun Ha. Altun Ha became famous in 1968 when Canadian archaeologist Dr. David Pendergast discovered a jaede head in a tomb. Now known to represent the Mayan Sun God, the jade head is valued at $60 million and is locked in a bank vault in Belize City. Our guide, Ken, who takes pride in being 90 per cent Mayan, told us that the Jade Head will likely never be displayed for the public. “Officials are terrified it will be stolen,” he said. “Only VIPs have seen it.”

Still, at Altun Ha, there is a lot to be seen as excavation continues around a plaza and thirteen remarkable structures have been unearthed, the tallest of which is the 20 metre Temple of Masonry Altar. A steep, single staircase leads to the top of the alter where major religious ceremonies took place.

“In all Mayan communities, the higher the building the closer you are to the gods,” Ken told us. “But this site is unique. There is evidence of animal sacrifice here but none that shows human sacrifice. Maybe people were happy and felt no need to sacrifice humans. We just don’t know.”

Back on the Norwegian Pearl, Hotel Manager, Dallas Easterley, gives much of the credit for the line’s cruise to Executive Chef Neil Allem of Toronto.

Norwegian Cruise Line generally attracts middle class families or those on a modest budget. But it compares very favourably with the higher end lines. We were impressed not only by the Central America itinerary but by the attention to detail on the ship.  We’re just not sure about the Bingo.