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A lesson in living well

STEPHEN PATRICK CLARE
METRO CANADA
September 24, 2009 10:31 p.m.
       Text size          
Pipa Restaurant
1685 Argyle Street
Halifax
902-407-7472
piparestaurant.ca

Signature Drink: Sangria
Signature Dish: Moqueca de Peixe
Rating: ****½
Dinner & drinks for 2: $70


Having travelled extensively throughout the Mediterranean region, I have seen how the other half eats. Unlike North Americans, Europeans understand food and the importance of simplicity and subtly in cuisine.
Haligonians can now learn the art of dining well at Pipa, the city’s newest, and only, Portuguese-Brazilian restaurant.
Starters set the tone for the soiree; the spicy Churizo ($7) was offset nicely by the milder Coxinhas de Galinha ($6), a lightly-seasoned minced chicken enclosed in savoury dough.
The highlight of the evening followed with the Frango Piri Piri ($18) — a baked chicken in a spicy chili-pepper marinade that was flavourful and as tender as the night. Likewise the Vatapa ($22), an oven-baked shrimp mixed in a zesty melange of palm-oil, cashews and tomato. Both plates were sensually satisfying and properly proportioned, further testament to the poise of the Portuguese palate.
Mousse de Queijo Branco com Goiaba ($7) — a white cheese mousse with guava sauce — proved a rich and tasty top-off.
And what proper Portuguese-Brazilian meal would be complete without a glass of Sangria? They call it “Bull’s Blood” for a reason, and here it is done to perfection ($5).
Very simply, Pipa provides an authentic education in the European eating experience.

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