A Cape to Adventure

The Australian love affair with the 4x4 SUV is evident everywhere. Most urban examples barely leave the tarmac and are reserved for ferrying the little darlings to and from school and their various weekend sporting engagements. But there exists a hardcore fraternity of bush-driving zealots who criss-cross this great continent on tracks that barely rate as roads at all.

The Aussie 4WD adventure however can take many forms from ‘mild’ to ‘wild’ and many of the previously daredevil routes have been tamed by both improved road conditions and enhanced vehicle technology.

Queensland’s rugged Cape York Peninsula is one bush-driving destination of considerable repute and on the very short list of all aspiring off-roaders. This very "blokey" (masculine) mix of hundreds of kilometres of dirt road, nights under the stars, true frontier country and the odd crocodile provides the ideal formula for the test of mechanised manhood – even family manhood.

Our journey begins in Cairns, the gateway to Cape York, after a softening ride aboard Queensland Rail's luxurious Queenslander. We loaded our showroom standard SUV in Brisbane and kicked back with gourmet cuisine, the occasional glass of merlot, comfy bunks and hand-and-foot service that in no way prepared us for the trials ahead.

Carefully detrained, we proceed at a doddle toward Cooktown, along the 250km coastal route via Mossman. Recently sealed, this leg is mere sightseeing as we twist and turn along the scenic Coral Sea coast, the road bordered by lush Daintree World Heritage rainforest on one side and vast, white powder beaches on the other.

Beyond Cape Tribulation and its many lodges, resorts and hostels the road reverts to dirt and we come upon the tiny Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal where the Walker sisters take visitors on an informative stroll to Bloomfield Falls, pointing out bush tucker plants and relating the local myths and legends. A little further along, enjoy a bushman’s sized burger at the Croc’n’Barra Café, Ayton.

Our overnighter is the legendary, 125-year-old Lions Den Hotel and already the carpark is full of 4x4s with the same idea. Genuine Outback types complete with ragged blue singlets and crusty Akubra hats scrutinise the newcomers, unconsciously sorting the various crews by vehicle. But inside at the bar, everyone is equal.

Next morning after a restful sleep in the comfortable safari-style rooms we bid a bleary farewell and head toward Cooktown, rejoining the newly sealed thoroughfare just up the way. Cooktown, a charming and authentic frontier town, was named after the famous captain who camped there for nearly two months in 1770 while repairing HM Bark Endeavour after her fateful encounter with the reef that now bears her name. As a consequence, the proud and eclectic ‘Cooktonians’ brag that their village is the site of the first European settlement on mainland Australia. You can easily spend a few days in Cooktown.

From Cooktown we set a course to Laura, a mere 138kms hence, taking in the lower reaches of the Lakefield National Park. Beyond the town, famous for its annual rodeo, is the Peninsula Developmental Road, which links the major roadhouses, rest stops and towns of Hutt River, Musgrave, Coen and Archer River, 312kms from Laura. Each of these layovers provides good food, camping and most facilities. Just out of Laura are the magnificent Quinkan Reserves rock galleries, a record of ancestral spirits and through them represent the laws, socialisation, spirituality and cultural practices at the core of Aboriginal life.

Along this stretch the road is mostly good but is interspersed with hazards like dust bowls and patches of deep corrugations that can throw you off your game if unprepared. Stay alert, don’t be lulled into excessive speed and give yourself LOTS of time to slow down for the numerous creek crossings. Silly accidents occur when drivers plunge into the water too fast and find it's full of rocks - or other vehicles!

Beyond Archer River Roadhouse, the Development Road continues on to Weipa and the way north is now along the fabled Telegraph Track, passing by Moreton (former) Telegraph Station, now a popular camping spot. At Bramwell Junction, 163kms from Archer, the hardcore 4WDers continue straight on along the Old Telegraph Track, but those wanting a relatively smooth passage can opt for the new Bamaga Road. It bypasses the notorious Gunshot Creek and other treacherous crossings you should not attempt unless properly prepared.

The Jardine River Ferry affords relief before you complete the final 220kms to Bamaga from Bramwell. The fee is a whopping $88 return, including GST, cash only, and don’t ask for a receipt - and lunchtime is strictly observed. The once popular river detour has been dredged, assuring your valued patronage.

Once at the Cape, set base at the comfortable Resort Bamaga and the final 34km lunge to the tip in a leisurely all-day foray that takes in many of the local sights including the fabled Croc Shop, probably Australia’s most northerly retailer and some of the still accessible wartime plane wrecks scattered in the bush. The idyllic Punsand Bay Safari and Fishing Lodge is the only accommodation option within cooee of the tip.

If you're a bit cheeky and want to really tick the journey off, it's possible to negotiate the tracks around the old resort and drive out onto the sand flats to within about 50m of the very tip of the Cape. Now all you need is the t-shirt.


Breakout

Some of the most engaging and authentic indigenous experiences are available in the Cape York region.

Cooktown, in particular, has developed as a hub for Aboriginal culture and local tribal elder, Willy Gordon of Guurrbi Tours is the benchmark operator.

For comprehensive, reliable, 7-day advice on tour options, call Cooktown Council’s excellent information service on Tel: +61 07 4069 6004
Info Line: 1800 174 895
Email: info@cooktowns.com
www.cooktowns.com

For an enhancement to your Cape York experience, extend to nearby Thursday Island. Peddells Ferries operate a regular service to the island.