Lupo
869 Hamilton St.
Vancouver
604-569-2535
luporestaurant.ca
Signature Drink: Prosecco
Signature Dish: Ricotta gnocchi
Rating: ****
Dinner & drinks for two: $100
The original Villa del Lupo was one of the first places I ever wrote about (almost a decade ago now). Back then, executive chef Julio Gonzalez Perini created a fine dining experience like no other, and I still fondly remember the wild boar stuffed with foie gras and morels that caused intensely amorous sensations on the palate.
The décor was more conducive to hushed whispers and a formal etiquette (no lolling in your chair here, if you please), and the wine list was serious—and seriously expensive. Villa was the place for fine dining in Yaletown, but then the restaurant changed hands, and Perini, along with his original GM and sommelier, Michael Mameli, went on to work at places like Cin Cin and The Beach House.
Today, several years later, Perini and Mameli are back together in the same heritage house, but there’s a whole new groove playing. A complete reno has wiped away all of the grand formality of the old restaurant. In its place are white-washed walls, dark wood floors, and comfortable chairs that demand some post-meal lounging. The volume has also gone up, and diners now laugh easily and talk eagerly. As for the food, the prices have come down, and the foie and white truffle might not be as plentiful as in days of yore, but the quality of the ingredients is without question, and the inspired and loving cookery of Perini is evident in every dish.
One visit had us starting with the raviolo ($9), an enormous square stuffed with spinach and ricotta, topped with a soft-poached egg, and drizzled with hazelnut butter. While I could have stood for more nut in my butter, the dreamy combination of the runny yolk with the ricotta and spinach stifled any grumbling. The focaccia ($5) is a soft, pillowy, baked round that is topped with paper-thin slices of zucchini. My tongue wanted more salt in the crust, but the bread was so moist that it rendered oil redundant.
A main of lamb shank ossobuco ($20) was less impressive. The meat itself was perfectly cooked, and yielded to my fork with ease, but lacked the infusion of flavour I expected from the rich sauce on top. In fact, the blandness led me to wonder if it had just been cooked in the nude, so to speak. The braised beef short ribs ($24), on the other hand, were just perfect—rich, intensely flavoured, and perfectly matched with a mascarpone polenta.
Another visit included an absolutely super-tasty-deluxe version of cream of cauliflower soup ($12). This was frothed with whipped cream, generously drizzled with truffle oil, and studded with cappelletti—translates as “pope’s hats”—that were stuffed with buffalo mozzarella. This was from the features list—which changes daily and is almost as large as the standing menu—but don’t worry, they have it pretty often.
We also tried the ricotta gnocchi ($14) topped with braised pork cheeks and a porcini sauce. This was just ridiculously good, especially with the stellar glass of Shiraz suggested by Mameli. By the bye, the wine list is a reason for coming unto itself. A healthy balance of Canadian and Italian bottles, many available by the glass, is nicely rounded out with Mameli’s own off-the-books collection in the cellar. Mameli himself is the ultimate wine yenta--tell him what you like, and he will find you a match.
Lupo, and its owners, have come full circle from where they started, and, judging by the new menu and room, one can say that the journey was more than worth it.
Ah, to be Young and “Wyse”
What do you get when you plant a family of two young winemakers, by name of Stephen Wyse and Michelle Young, on a fertile plot in Osoyoos? Some lovely artisan wines, including a luscious 2008 Shiraz that was bold enough to convert me from my ever-so-slightly-disdainful attitude to this varietal. A deep berry and dark chocolate nose sits over a rich palate of herbs, cooked berries and a hint of coffee. $23 direct from the winery or at private wine stores.
Top Shelf
Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro will be offering a jeroboam bottle of Moët et Chandon Brut Impérial to the first Olympic medalist—along with their friends, family and coaches—from each country. Don’t forget your medal.
Food in Brief
Auto-grat Alert
Does your bill seem a little higher these days? It may be because you didn’t notice the automatic gratuity that some restaurants have added to their bills during the Games. If you were caught unawares, you may have ended up leaving a tip of 30-40%, instead of the usual 15-20%.
If the service was that fantastic, kudos to you, but if not, better read your bill a little more carefully next time. The auto-grats are supposed to disappear after the Olympics conclude.
