La Brasserie
1091 Davie St.
Vancouver
604-677-4682
labrasserievancouver.com
Open for Dinner
Tuesday to Sunday; 5:00 p.m. to midnight
Signature Drink: Gerolsteiner
Signature Dish: Suckling Pig
Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90
Franco-German bistro hits all the right notes
There are three things that make up a good restaurant: décor, service and menu. When all three are in alignment, the heavens resound with praises and we mortals should dance and rejoice.
When La Brasserie opened a couple of weeks ago, I debated on waiting and giving them a chance to settle in, but curiosity is my besetting sin, so off I went in search of the holy trinity…
The décor was simple. Red fleur-de-lis papered one wall, gilded mirrors flanked the dark wood and leather banquet seating, and an absolutely beautiful stained-glass chandelier gave off just enough light to encourage cozying up to your friends. An open kitchen, with a rotisserie up front and centre, and a wide expanse of windows looking over Davie Street, perfected the scene.
The service was superb. Just friendly -- and French -- enough without being officious, it was all good humour and a slightly cheeky cheeriness that eschewed formal table assignments for a “Passing-by-and-thought-I-would-help” attitude that left me feeling as if I had been engaged in a constant flirtation with everyone around me (well, OK, maybe I had). I suppose it helps when your server has a sexy French accent and that certain je ne sais quoi that makes most women, and some men, drool.
The food…oh, the food was sublime. It’s a heady sign when you leave drunker from the meal than the wine (although, granted, the latter, a bottle-and-a-half of Faugères, helped). We started with a seafood terrine ($9), which was a chilled, fresh gelée of mussels, shrimp, oysters, crab and tomatoes. An Alsatian onion tart ($8) was a dense mesh of sautéed and caramelized onions over a flaky crust, topped with a large dollop of crème fraîche.
Suckling pig ($18) was a bacon-wrapped, fork-tender cut that came with house-made sauerkraut and fresh schupfnudeln (potato “fingers,” similar to gnocchi). The latter were so good that I asked for an additional side, but was informed that, as the kitchen made them fresh each day, and in limited quantity, they were reserved as accompaniments to the main. I was sorely tempted to order another pig, just to get at those damned schupfnudeln, but our second main had arrived, and I realized that space needed to be left for dessert. An entrecote of beef ($19) with mash and spinach was slightly more medium than I would wish, but still perfectly juicy.
Dessert started with a simple, sexy crème brulée ($7) that was large and freshly seared and finished with a deep, dark, slightly bitter chocolate torte ($7) that made more than my cheeks blush. Hmm, not bad for a two-week-old joint.
Languedoc Produces Quality Plonk
Now that the cold and wet are no longer avoidable, and hearty stews and braises grace our tables, it’s time to update the wine list with more suitable grapes. Domaine de l’Auster, in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, produces a lovely Faugères called Mosaïque. Like Bordeaux, Faugères wines must be a specific blend to meet appellation standards. This one is made up of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Carignan. A nose of stewed fruits and spices, with a full, round and spicy palate, makes it a perfect (and cheap) match for your bourguignon or terrines. $16.99 at BCLS or enjoy at French bistros like Pied-a-Terre, Jules or La Brasserie.
Fun with Fungi
Throughout the month of November, CinCin (1154 Robson St.) will be holding its annual Festa del Fungo, celebrating wild mushrooms and truffles. Enjoy French tartufi nero or Italian Alba tartufi bianchi with king oyster, porcini, black trumpet or cinnamon cap mushroom features. Call 604-688-7338 or visit cincin.net.
Dining Out
Cibo Trattoria in the Moda Hotel (900 Seymour St.) is now offering a 3-course pre-theatre prix fixe menu for $38. Menu changes daily, but previous options included roast ling cod, crispy polenta and plum and almond tart. Get a free glass of bubbly with your VSO or Playhouse tickets. Call 604-602-9570.
On Thursday, November 20, Jules Bistro will be hosting a special dinner with Oyama Sausage Company and Les Amis du Fromage, celebrating the release of this year’s production of Beaujolais Nouveau. $40 includes a three-course meal with two glasses of wine. Three seatings are available: 5:30 p.m., 7:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Call 604-669-0033.
Food in Brief
Culinary Team Canada won four gold medals and ranked as fifth overall in the National Team Category at the International Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany. The competition takes place every four years.
Culinary Team B.C. brought home a gold medal from the same competition and ranked as third overall, out of 62 competing teams, in the Regional Team Category.
