Twisted Fork Bistro
1147 Granville St.
Vancouver
604-568-0749
Open for Dinner & Late Night Tapas
Daily from 6 p.m. to midnight
Open for Brunch
Saturday & Sunday: 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Signature Drink: Vanilla Mole
Signature Dish: Cornish Hen
Rating: ***1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $85
It opened three weeks ago with no fanfare, publicity or buzz of any kind. In truth, I knew nothing about Twisted Fork Bistro until I received a plaintive email from the owners asking me to review and praise them…or else put them out of their misery.
I was intrigued. The food scene on the Granville entertainment strip has been more miss than hit, in my experience. Forgettable (and largely indigestible) establishments with names like The Space Lounge (the inside of which resembles the good old starship Enterprise—without the fancy sets) and…wait for it…Deuce Bungalow (see my earlier review) have depressed and dominated the scene.
On a positive note, places like Sanafir, Sip and Red X Red are levelling out the playing field with inventive fare and charming environments. Therefore, off I went with Peter, my faithful digestive partner, hoping that I wouldn’t have to take on the role of executioner/undertaker. Nonetheless, the hatchet was ready to wield.
Well, the results are in and I’m afraid I just can’t do it. The food was too good, the room was too cozy, the prices über-reasonable and that wall of pickled vegetables was just too darn interesting…
It’s the kind of place that I would expect to see on Main Street or Commercial Drive. In fact, when I spoke to executive chef and co-owner Corey Sullivan over the phone after my visit, he mentioned that he and partners, Mike and Andrea Leslie, first looked at Main, but the rent was cheaper downtown. Go figure.
Long, narrow rooms seem the fashion these days, and Twisted Fork is no exception. The décor, however, is much less typical, with fully beamed ceilings, warm colours, a shiny, walnut wood bar, plus “twisted” sculptures, attractive paintings and photographs by artists from Fernie.
The tiny, open kitchen was so Zen that I had to check to see if anyone was actually working. The food was definitely coming out to the tables in double quick time, as far as I could see, but Mr. Sullivan and staff seem to operate on some other-worldly plane of existence, where the loud shouting and clanging of metal instruments that characterize most open kitchen settings is just passé.
The previously mentioned wall of pickled vegetables, fruits and condiments is just opposite the restrooms (which, by the bye, are oh, so pretty) and was put up by Sullivan. Everything in the restaurant is made from scratch in-house, from the warm, crusty sourdough in the bread basket to the pickled olive in your martini. Apparently, a few diners have tried and succeeded in walking away with a jar or two under their coat.
Sullivan and his partners have impressive pedigrees. Sullivan, who completed his training at Stratford Chefs School, has worked for Glowbal and Coast. As well, before testing the fates in Vancouver, the trio ran The Wood restaurant in Fernie, one of the busiest ski resorts in the province, for seven years. During the peak winter season, they would serve upwards of 450 people daily and employed more than 30 staff members, 16 of which were in the kitchen. Their current digs must feel like a vacation by comparison, as this space doesn’t seat more than 50.
The menu is a simple, French-based sampler of no forks (cheese plate, tasting platter, mussels, etc), small forks (appetizers), spoons (soups) and, of course, big forks (mains). The most expensive entrée is $23 and appetizers hover between $5.50 and $9. Martinis like the Vanilla Mole are a ridiculous $6.96 and there are about a dozen reds and whites by the glass.
A gruyère onion tart ($5.50) with pear-walnut chutney was light, creamy and pastry-perfect. I could have stood for more onion, but the overall effect was still good. Crab-ful cakes ($9) with red pepper coulis and avocado salsa were so hearty that I almost felt bad for the crustaceans who sacrificed their shells. Very fresh.
Peter’s Cornish game hen ($18) with celeriac puree and roasted plums was so tender and aromatic that I considered stealing it all for myself, but my duck ($23), served two ways (confit leg and cured breast) was pretty tasty, not to mention large. The leg could have been a little more moist, but the breast was succulent and saliva-inducing. The side of mango relish came a bit late, but was a lovely match with the meat and ratatouille. The mashed potatoes that came with were just a little bit bland and could have used some perking up.
Dessert seems to be where Sullivan really shines, he was the pastry chef when at Glowbal Group, after all. A lemon tart ($7) was a perfect palate cleanser, light, tart and more perfect pastry. A caramel napoleon ($7) blew me away. I normally avoid caramel, it’s not my favourite sweet taste, but this was divine, combined with both fresh and coulis raspberry, cream and almond biscuit taking the place of the traditional puff pastry.
Some things need improvement. The music, while not overly loud, was—eclectic, at best. Donna Summer was followed by Indian dance music, a house remix of Nina Simone’s Running Man and something that sounded like it belonged at a rave. In between all of that, there was a little blues, a little soul train and a whole lot of 90s-era pop.
As well, a few dishes lacked that polish that Vancouver diners have become used to. However, these are minor and easily fixed quirks, and I predict good things for this sorta-French eatery and look forward to many more twisted meals.
“Ribbet, Ribbet,” said the Arrogant Frog
He calls himself the Humble Winemaker, but Jean-Claude Mas is the face and brain behind that Arrogant Frog (winery, that is) from Languedoc-Roussillon in France and its Ribet Red. This 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 45 per cent Merlot blend boasts a deep purple colour, a nose of black and red berries, red peppers and jam, and a smooth finish. Best of all, though, is its price: $12.99 at BCLS means you can stock up for dinners of grilled meats, game, strong cheese and dark chocolate without breaking your piggy bank.
Wining into Fall
Provence Marinaside (1177 Marinaside Crescent) is uncorking a series of winemakers’ dinners for the fall. On Nov. 12, 19 and 26, explore the wines of Blue Mountain, Blackwood Lane and Laughing Stock Vineyards. Tickets are $125/$150. For menu details and reservations, call 604-681-4144.
Dining Out
Hart House Restaurant at Deer Lake (6664 Deer Lake Ave, Burnaby) is celebrating fall’s harvest with a two-course express lunch for $19, as well as a three-course dinner menu for $39. Sample dishes include beef bourguignon, California striped bass and roasted rack of lamb. Call 604-298-4278 or visit harthouserestaurant.com.
On November 18 at 7 p.m., Glowbal Restaurant Group is hosting a joint Chefs’ Tasting Menu at Coast Restaurant (1257 Hamilton St). The chefs from Coast, Glowbal Grill & Satay Bar, Sanafir, Italian Kitchen, Trattoria IK and Glowbal Catering will serve a ten-course dinner, including wine pairings, for $250 per person. Call 604-685-5010 for reservations.
Food in Brief
Kevin Van Hullebush, formerly of Le Crocodile, Lift and C Restaurant, has taken on the assistant sommelier position at DB Bistro Moderne, which is set to open early December.
Romy Prasad, formerly of Savoury Coast and CinCin, has joined the team at So.Cial at Le Magasin under proprietor Maureen Fleming.
