Urban Foodie by Anya Levykh

Two years of top eats

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 05:16:18 -0400

It’s always hard to say goodbye, especially to something you’ve enjoyed doing. And I have truly enjoyed writing this column for the past two years and working with the wonderful folks here at Metro.

But timing is everything, and with new opportunities on my horizon and big changes for this publication (stay tuned), this seemed like an organic time to wrap things up. If you’d like to stay in touch in future, I can be found at foodgirlfriday.wordpress.com.

Instead of writing yet another review, I thought I would look back at some of my favourite food experiences from the past two years. In no particular order. Enjoy.

Fraîche Restaurant
2240 Chippendale Rd.
604-925-7595
fraicherestaurant.ca

It’s ironic that this was the very last place I reviewed for Metro, as it also happened to be the very first. Over the past two years, it has changed chefs and gone through several seasonal menus, but the attention to quality and taste has only improved, and with chef/co-owner Dino Renaerts now at the helm, things are sure to continue along the same path.

I had a culinary epiphany here with a very simple dish of seared Qualicum Bay scallops, housemade lobster ravioli, and peeled asparagus, drizzled with lobster vinaigrette.

the pourhouse
162 Water St.
604-568-7022
pourhousevancouver.com

This spot snagged the number one spot on my Top 10 list for 2009 for their redone comfort food menu and excellent bar program. My “moment” here arrived in the form of some Humboldt squid, scored, grilled and served up as large, juicy steaks topped with crispy flakes of garlic, threads of chilli pepper, and fresh chopped green onion.

Charlie’s Restaurant & Bar
1265 Hamilton St.
604-568-6685
charlielovespizza.com

This is a place to have a cocktail, down a few slices of pie, and watch Argentina kick Greek butt. I wasn’t expecting much here, but it turns out these pies are the ones I would want if I ever had to choose my last meal. In particular, the poutine pizza, with its bordelaise sauce base, shaved fingerling potatoes crusted in rosemary salt, and the abundance of squeaky cheese curds that sit partially melted over the whole.

Mis Trucos
1141 Davie St.
604-566-3960
mistrucos.ca

This modern Mediterranean tapas bar has redefined the meaning of sexy food. Start with the wild venison tartare on brioche with truffle and a slow-cooked quail’s egg, and finish with the white truffle and lobster risotto finished with herbed crème fraîche.

Au Petit Chavignol
843 East Hastings St.
604-255-4218
aupetitchavignol.com

I firmly believe that if you were to strand me on a deserted island with cheese and bread, I would never leave — at least, not until I needed a refill.

And Au Petit would be the first place I would go. Their housemade chicken liver and cognac pâté with apricot glaze has caused many palpitations of the clicker since they opened their doors.

La Brasserie

This Franco-German bistro located in the heart of Davie Village is a veritable fountain of artery-clogging, palate-soothing food. The red fleurs-de-lis on the walls, and the rotisserie chickens in the open kitchen just add to the backwoods-Europe feel of comfort and heartiness. It was the suckling pig that first made me fall in love, along with the accompanying schupfnudel (little pillowy fingers of pan-fried and herbed potato dumplings). Later visits also introduced me to the truffled poutine. Not a dish for the faint of heart—and I mean that literally, as the aortal valves will be working overtime after this one.
1091 Davie St. | 604-568-6499 | www.labrasserievancouver.com

La Taqueria: Pinche Taco Shop
In case you’re wondering, the “pinche” stands for “fu*%ing,” which is, for some strange reason, what these little types of taco shops are commonly called in Mexico. Regardless, this downtown hole-in-the-wall boasts handmade, authentic, soft corn tortillas (made at the front counter), which are then topped with heavenly things like braised Pemberton Meadows beef tongue, Chilliwack pork cheeks, Maple Hills chicken with mole sauce, or sautéed mushrooms in spicy chipotle sauce. One of the best cheap eats in town.
322 West Hastings St. | 604-568-4406 | www.lataqueria.ca

Wild Rice

This modern Chinese restaurant with its contemporary lounge feel will be celebrating it’s 10th anniversary next year, but the food is something that never loses its freshness. Despite sticking to the original tenets of Chinese cooking—like the absence of all dairy products—owner Andrew Wong and chef Todd Bright manage to create inventive dishes that continually challenge our ideas about what constitutes Chinese food. The spot prawn and Sloping Hill pork dumplings or the Fraser Valley lamb potstickers are reason enough to go, but only if you don’t count the lychee brulée.
117 West Pender St. | 604-642-2882

Refuel Restaurant

This is the home of the famous spot prawn boil, of the whole hog dinner and sundry other carnivorous delights. Chef Rob Belcham has always been an expert in the animal protein department, and his buttermilk fried Polderside chicken is no exception to that. Neither is the pulled pork sandwich, or the dry aged beef burger, or the housemade pork rillettes or the roasted bone marrow, or…you get the idea.
1944 West 4 Ave. | 604-288-7905 | www.refuelrestaurant.com

Bistro Pastis

When it comes to classic French bistro fare, there are several great options in this city, but some of my favourite moments have been at this long-time Kitsilano favourite. Warm yellow walls, and the welcoming smiles and Gallic greetings of proprietor John Blakeley and his crew have never failed to put me into just the right mood for sole Meunière, le canard a l’orange, le tournedos et le foie gras, or the crepes Suzette au Grand Marnier.
2153 West 4 Ave. | 604-731-5020 | www.bistropastis.com

Top Shelf

Greek Day
This Sunday, June 27 is the annual Greek Day Festival, complete with all of the wonderful vendors offering souvlaki, spanakopitas, grilled corn, and baklava. Visit www.greekday.com for more info.

Five years of great dining is just the beginning

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Chambar
562 Beatty St.
604-879-7119
www.chambar.com

Rating: *****
Dinner & drinks for two: $100+
Signature Dish: Spice-Rubbed Duck
Signature Drink: The Blue Fig

There are certain restaurants that fail to stand the tests of both time and fickle restaurant-goers. A few brief months of glory, and the hipsters move along to the next shiny new place. Chambar is absolutely not one of those. The room is sleek and hip, but certainly not the prettiest in town, and the prices are definitely not on the cheap side. So what is it that has made this place such a consistent favourite over the last half-decade and kept those hipsters—and what seems like everybody else in town—coming back?

The answer might lie in the previous question. Consistency. Chambar is a place that has stuck to what it does best—Belgian cuisine mixed with Middle Eastern and North African influences—and has consistently dished out that cuisine without pause or gratuitous change. The blue fig martini ($11)—made with oven roasted, then frozen figs, and served with a side of Danish blue cheese—has been on the menu since the beginning, and there’s a reason it’s still around (I tested it several times one night to be sure). And the service has become a benchmark for new contenders on the fine dining front. In fact, its owners, couple Karri Schuermans and Chef Nico Schuermans, are responsible for training and nurturing what seems to be half of the top talent in town—both in front and back of house.

I hadn’t been to Chambar in several years, but with their recent five year anniversary celebrations fresh in my mind, and new faces in the kitchen and on the floor, it seemed like a good time to drop by. A birthday was being celebrated, so a large group of us gathered one busy Saturday night to make with the whoop and ingest the (hopefully) good stuff.

I tend to think of Saturday nights as the worst time to review a restaurant. The place is usually packed, the servers are harried, the music is often too loud, and the kitchen is frantic. Trust this place to turn that notion inside out. Yes, the place was busy—I didn’t see a single empty table—but the noise level was lively enough to impart good vibes without requiring us to shout at our neighbours. The service was so smooth that I really didn’t notice the details of who refilled our water glasses with the house sparkling water, or even when.

And, not to digress, but how cool is it that some restaurants are now installing water filtration and carbonation systems so that they can offer their guests sparkling B.C. water for a whopping $1 per person—for the whole night. Yup, $1 buys you all the sparkling H20 you can quaff, served in tall glass bottles that didn’t need to be shipped in from Finland, or wherever the latest designer water comes from. Chambar is one of a small—but growing—handful of restaurants jumping on this eco-water train, and it’s a nice nod to the environment, as are the dual-flush bowls in the washrooms. In fact, Chambar is in process of becoming completely carbon-neutral through an aggressive recycling, composting and re-purposing program that includes all the paper in the restaurant being 100% post-consumer recycled, and even the take-home cutlery and packaging for your leftovers being biodegradable and compostable.

But, to return to the point—namely, the food—this is where the love really stands out. Chef Schuermans still does a mean lamb tagine ($29), but the spice-rubbed duck breast ($29), served with fresh pea shoots and crispy, light spring rolls stuffed with scallion-and-tarragon infused goat cheese, the whole drizzled in fresh orange gastrique, caused the juices to flow in all sorts of pleasurable ways. A steaming pot of mussels cooked in a tomato-coconut cream ($22), with smoked chili and fresh cilantro, was an excellent starter for two, with enough sauce to soak up the loaf of bread we used as a mop. A friend’s pistachio-crusted halibut ($30) melted away on the tongue, and was perfectly matched with a lovely lemon quinoa.

Chambar has stuck to its guns through fat years and lean, and the result is a restaurant that will no doubt see another five years (and hopefully more) of happy success and satisfied palates.

Just in time for summer: new releases from Mission Hill
Looking for an accompaniment to that lovely cut of Pemberton steak on the grill, or the chilled lobster you’re serving up? Mission Hill’s latest releases include a full-bodied 2007 Five Vineyards Cabernet Merlot ($16.99) with dark cocoa and spice notes over a rich plum palate, making it perfect with beef, duck or aged cheeses. For the pescatarian, try the 2008 Reserve Viognier ($15.99). The rich creaminess and citrus-stone fruit palate is ideal with chilled shellfish, oysters, and sushi.

The Zero-Mile Diet
On June 24 at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, enjoy an evening of local food and gardening from one of B.C.’s top gardening gurus, Carolyn Herriot. Tickets $40 and include a signed copy of Herriot’s book, The Zero-Mile Diet. Call 604-688-6755.

Dining Out

Summer in France
Throughout the summer months, Bistro Pastis (2153 West 4 Ave) will be offering regional French table d’hote menus for only $35 per person for three courses. Starting June 22 will be the Brittany and Normandy-themed menu, featuring sole Normande, crepes au citron and poulet au cidre. Call 604-731-5020.

An Epic Father’s Day
This Sunday for Father’s Day, Refuel Restaurant (1944 West 4 Ave) is offering up an 18 oz, 40-day, dry-aged, Alberta prime rib-eye steak, along with a 16 oz craft beer from R&B Brewing Co. for $55. Steak comes with two fried eggs and French fries for brunch, or a variety of sautéed mushrooms and fries for dinner. Call 604-288-7905.

Food in Brief

Rogue Kitchen & Wetbar is now open at 601 West Cordova St., and is the first restaurant in Vancouver to offer a “pay-what-you-think-it’s-worth” option on all food items. Just remember, honesty really is the best policy.

Industry stars Annette Rawlinson and Chef Tina Fineza have joined forces to open The Commune Café at 1002 Seymour St. in early July. Looking forward to a great selection of nosh and quaffs.

Gastropub has potential

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 02:32:06 -0400

Relish Gastropub
888 Nelson St.
Vancouver
604-669-1962
www.relishthepub.com

Rating: ** 1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $70
Signature Dish: Oyster po’ boy
Signature Drink: Gaida

It was a dark and stormy night, and fittingly, we had tickets for Puccini. It was decided that some hearty gastropub fare would be most welcome pre-show.

I had already done a quick run-by of the recently redone Relish Gastropub and the new menu, and was eager to try more. The new chef, Patchen Gallagher, is a DIY enthusiast, and likes to cure his own gravlax, grind his own meats, and troll the local markets for fresh produce. Besides, when words like duck fat, gnocchi poutine and oyster po’ boy get bandied about with enthusiasm, the buds start to salivate.

The room is small, low-ceilinged, and panelled in dark wood and tile, with comfortable seating and music that’s just retro enough—Beatles, James Brown—to be interesting. The menu is equally small, but is well thought out. The wine list has some kitschy by-the-glass selections like Fast Bastard and Arrogant Frog, as well as some stronger choices, like the Joie Rosé. A nice find is a bottle of Chateau Roquetaillade Bordeaux for $50.

Almost half of the menu is devoted to cheeses and charcuterie, at fairly reasonable prices. $4 gets you an ounce of anything, or you can do a three-for-$10 deal. The house-cured gravlax is rich and oily, and the smoked duck breast is matched perfectly with a sweet pomegranate relish. Beef carpaccio—also house-cured—is a little heavily sauced for my taste, but beautifully presented. I also discovered there is a buck-a-shuck special on fresh oysters every day between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. Score.

The rest of the menu is made up of elevated pub grub selections like tourtière ($15), shepherd’s pie ($15) and gnocchi poutine ($10). We started with the goat cheese brulée ($10), which was a bit confusing. Served over a bed of cranberry in a ramekin, this was a tasty spread, but where was the “brulée?” The accompanying “herbed” toast points were no such thing, which left me wondering why they just didn’t call it “baked goat cheese with toasted bread” and save us the disappointment of expecting something else.

Duck fat “steak frites” ($6) were large, herbed potato wedges that, although tasty, felt more roasted than fried, with no discernible flavour or hint of duck fat. The deep-fried oysters ($3 each), however, were large and delicious, and worth going back for.

What then ensued was one of the longest waits that I have ever experienced. There was only one other table occupied at the time, a couple, so our table of three didn’t seem like such a heavy burden. However, it took over 35 minutes for our mains to appear. A simple “sorry for the wait” from our server would have gone a long way, but it wasn’t until I had looked at my watch three times, wondered aloud in her presence about the food, and finally asked point-blank when the damn plates would arrive that she mentioned they were about to plated.

Mini lamb burgers ($7) were good from every angle. The braised cheeks melted in the mouth, the buns were soft and fresh, and the mint aioli and dijon chevre were present in just the right amount. A chicken cordon bleu ($15) was also a nice choice, but the gnocchi poutine ($10) was hugely disappointing. Although the cheese curds were authentic, with the right amount of squeak, the gnocchi were heavy and dense, instead of light and pillowy, and the red wine demi glace that took the place of the gravy was reduced almost to the point of burning, leaving a slightly smoky aftertaste.

Another visit saw me trying the oyster po’ boy ($15). This was a vast improvement and came with a roasted tomato soup drizzled with basil oil that was rich, flavourful, and left a subtle hint of heat on the tongue. The service was also much improved, so one can hope the other night was a fluke.

Relish is definitely on the right track with its food program, and Chef Gallagher is obviously enthusiastic about what he’s putting out. A few small tweaks and this neighbourhood pub can definitely be a place to “relish.”

New releases

Bring on the Barbie
With summer fast approaching, and the barbecues warming up, it’s time to think about what to pair with those freshly grilled hamburgers and ribs. Columbia Crest’s Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Washington State is a light, fruit-forward choice, with a palate of cherries, strawberries and cola. $12.99 at BCLS.

Dining Out

Refuel Your Picnic
Refuel (1944 West 4 Ave) has added a summer fried chicken picnic to their takeout menu. Get three, six or 12 pieces of cold buttermilk-fried Polderside chicken, housemade biscuits, sides like potato salad or watermelon, and soda, plus biodegradable cutlery and napkins. $18 per person; $35 per couple; or $68 per family. Call 604-288-7905.

Friday Brunch
Twisted Fork (1147 Granville St.) is now open for Friday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. All brunch mains are $11 and include banana-stuffed brioche French toast, gruyere baked eggs, bacon and brie frittata, croque monsieur, eggs benny and more. Call 604-568-0749.

Food in Brief

Bard-B-Q & Fireworks
Tickets are now on sale for Bard on the Beach’s annual fundraising al fresco dinner and fireworks evening. Enjoy a play, salmon burger and the annual Celebration of Light for $103. www.bardonthebeach.org

Smoking Dog
Pascal Georges, former chef at The Smoking Dog Bistro under the late Jean-Claude Ramond, has returned to the nest, and brought a new menu with him. Here’s to going back to the French basics.

Awards
Yew Restaurant & Bar at The Four Seasons Hotel has won Best Hotel Dining & Bar at the Where Vancouver Magazine Annual Dining Awards. Congratulations to a very talented team!

No sense of “dhoom” at this Indian eatery

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 09:00:00 -0400

Dhoom
6555 Fraser St.
Vancouver
604-325-4911
dhoomrestaurant.com

Signature Drink: Chai, of course…
Signature Dish: Lamb rogan gosh

Rating: ***1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $65

The area around Main Street and East 49 Ave. has always been known as Little India, with the appropriate number of curry spots, larger dining rooms and fabric and jewelery stores. Nearby Fraser St., however, is where the locals of the area congregate on a daily basis. This is where the banks and grocery shops are, the sushi and pizza joints, the post office and pharmacy. And this is also where the Dhaliwal group of restaurants decided to open the latest incarnation of their popular Surrey restaurant, Dhoom, along with its next-door sweet shop.

Despite its name, Dhoom gives the impression of anything but. The interior has been done up with tiled floors, high-backed dark velvet banquets and booths, linen tablecloths, and 3-D photo murals on the walls. The waving dried bamboo sticks over the large windows give privacy without taking away the light, and although there is a flat screen over the bar, showing the requisite hockey game, it was muted and unobtrusive.

I don’t know if you have experienced this, but one of my pet peeves is being in a quiet restaurant and experiencing excruciatingly slow and inattentive service. Happily, Dhoom has its act together on all fronts. Despite the fact that, on a recent visit, we were the only ones in the restaurant, the server seemed happy to greet us, checked in on us frequently, cleared away unused plates and glasses, and delivered our food with a promptness that declared the kitchen was fully staffed and ready to go.

As for the menu, the prices are more than reasonable. $65 (plus tip) for two people had me and P. stuffing ourselves silly, and still taking home a large bag of goodies for lunch the next day.

Cocktails are all priced at a ridiculous $6.50, but be warned; our bartender/server obviously has a free hand with the liquor. My cosmo (served with some ice and a couple of olives…interesting) tasted like it had at least three ounces of the good stuff, if not more, and I had to leave it. The chai, on the other hand, is outstanding, freshly brewed, and perfectly balanced with cardamom and milk. If you really need some hooch with your tandoori, stick to the house wines, which are both Mission Hill, or one of the bottled beers, of which there is a decent selection.

Paneer pakora ($6.95), those lovely cheese fritters, were moist on the inside and perfectly crisp on the outside, and the tamarind sauce was obviously just made. One order was more than large enough for both of us, which was too bad, as we had also ordered some garlic naan ($1.95) and vegetable raita ($3.95) to enjoy before our mains showed up.

For mains, we went with the chicken tikkha masala ($11.95) and the lamb rogan josh ($11.50), sided with some fragrant, long-grain jasmine rice ($3.99) that was cooked with cumin, cilantro and peas. Although we had asked for medium spiciness for both, they definitely were leaning more to the hot side, and some emergency lassi was required.

Dessert was a pleasant surprise—and a nice cool-down for our overheated tastebuds. Something that is pronounced “rabdi falludi” ($5) sounded odd when described—noodles, pistachio ice cream, rose water and petals—but tasted amazing when it arrived. The noodles in question were the skinny insta-noodle type you find in Mr. Noodles packets, but, somehow, with the ice cream and rose water, this gave a lovely texture to the dish. Gulab jamun ($2) was your typical serving of hot, sweet, deep-fried cheese balls in honey and rose syrup, and definitely took care of the sweet tooth for the night.

Despite a few hiccups, Dhoom is a great neighbourhood addition to busy Fraser Street, and I am going back soon for that rabdi-whatever.

B.C. Wine and the HST

As if you needed another reason to buy direct from a winery. With the HST coming into play on July 1, the five per cent GST and 10 per cent PST liquor tax on wine sales will be replaced by the 12 per cent HST. Theoretically, this means you should be saving three per cent on your liquor purchases, but, unfortunately, the LDB has adjusted their prices so that consumers won’t be getting any savings. Purchases direct from wineries like Laughing Stock Vineyards, however, are not subject to the LDB’s price increases. Laughing Stock has announced that they will adjust their prices for July 1 so consumers will see a difference in their favour. Hopefully, more wineries will join in and we can find at least one thing to celebrate about the HST.

Top Shelf

The Granville Island Farmer’s Market opens today in Triangle Square, and will continue every Thursday throughout the summer from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Dining Out

Wine and polish?
On June 11 from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., a South African wine tasting will be held at the 39th & Cambie Signature BC Liquor Store. Free to the public, it also includes bites from Hart House restaurant and complimentary mini spa treatments from Spa Utopia. Plus, enter to win a deluxe spa and hotel package from Spa Utopia and Pan Pacific Vancouver worth $1,000. woza.co.za

Afternoon Tea—French Style
Provence Marinaside has relaunched Le Grand Thé, the French version of afternoon tea, complete with organic teas and coffees, savoury canapés and sweet tarts like the orange lavender shortbread and petite tarte au citron. $20 per person. Available Monday to Saturday, 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Call 604-681-4144 for details.

Food in Brief

Café Trifecta
It seems the humble café is having a heyday. The past months have seen three newcomers to downtown and Gastown, including Sweeney’s in Yaletown, and Everything Café and Acme Café in Gastown. The pies at the latter are worth a trip all by themselves.

The evolution of bar food

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 27 May 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Not so long ago, bar food typically referred to salted peanuts and chicken wings. Pre-cooked and frozen chicken wings, at that. Not so anymore. The modern bar has evolved right alongside the refined appetites of local gastronomes, and the result is food that makes the line between watering holes and feeding troughs that much harder to find. Here, in no particular order, are some suggestions for top-notch bar food.

The Keefer Bar
Located on the ground floor of the Keefer Hotel in Chinatown, this dark and low-hanging room is home to some of the city’s best cocktails, thanks to bartender Dani Tatarin. As for the food, the menu is still in its infancy, with only six items to choose from, but the $12 Chinese charcuterie platter is a winner with its housemade sausage, barbecued pork, Peking duck rillettes, Mantou bread, persimmon compote and hand-pickled vegetables.
135 Keefer St. | thekeefer.com

The Diamond
In nearby Gastown, this airy lounge sits overlooking Gassy Jack. While the cocktail menu may be a small encyclopedia, the select food list has some clear winners, like the handmade gyoza filled with pork from Sloping Hills Farm. Lightly pan-fried and sprinkled with green onion and pickled mushrooms, it’s a steal at $6, and a surprisingly good match with one of owner Josh Pape’s award-winning cocktails.
6 Powell St. | di6mond.com

The Pourhouse
While this spot falls more under the restaurant heading, there is no shortage of bar-worthy food to eat at what is one of the most beautiful bars (as in wood) in Gastown. And with barmen Jay Jones and Brian Grant at the helm, you can be sure the cocktails are extremely worthy. The Humboldt squid ($10), cut into thick, juicy steaks, scored, and grilled, then tossed with chillies, green onion and crispy garlic, is a thing of wonder.
162 Water St. | pourhousevancouver.com

Au Petit Chavignol
For those who enjoy wine and cheese more than beer and nuts, this is the place to sample both. And for a larger snack, the croque madame ($11), made with ham, gruyere and béchamel sauce, topped with a sunny-side egg, hits the palate in just the right spot.
843 East Hastings St. | aupetitchavignol.com

The Cascade Room
This long-standing Main Street favourite is home to barman Nick Devine and his classic cocktails. As for the food, the polenta fries ($6), crispy on the outside, soft and moist on the inside, are the thing to try, along with the side of curried mayo for dipping.
2616 Main St. | thecascade.ca

George Ultra Lounge
It’s as chic as its name, but the food is infinitely more about comfort, freshness and flavour. The Kobe beef burger ($16), with its ale-and-dijon-soaked cheddar topping, is as comfortable as it gets. Add the free-range runny egg for $3 for extra kicks.
1137 Hamilton St. | georgelounge.com

The Refinery
The charcuterie and cheese selections are outstanding, and the wine list is one to work through. The grilled cheese sandwich ($10), however, with pancetta, tomato, caramelized onions and garlic aioli, is the winner, and is a wonderful, fresh take on a tired favourite.
1115 Granville St. | therefineryvancouver.com

Uva Wine Bar
Located in the Moda hotel, this award-winning bar hits all the right notes with its polished interior, ridiculously good (and accessible) wine list, and off-the-track items like the deep-fried lamb’s brains (oh, get over yourselves) with artichoke and salsa verde ($14).
900 Seymour St. | uvawinebar.ca

Red Card Sports Bar
The next door neighbour of Uva, it’s sleek, shiny and red interior might put you in mind of an “upscale-casual” setting, but the food is more inventive and discerning than that. Try the arancini ($8), large deep-fried risotto balls stuffed with mozzarella, prosciutto and peas for the ideal World Cup snack. The pizzas are also worth experiencing, thanks to the fancy, Italian wood-fired oven they recently installed.
900 Seymour St. | redcardsportsbar.ca

Charlie’s Restaurant and Bar
The pizzas are definitely not authentic, but that doesn’t stop them from tasting damn fine. Try the duck ($16 small; $25 large) with porcini sauce, smoked duck, roasted portobellini mushrooms, tallegio cheese, radicchio and truffle oil.
1265 Hamilton St. | charlielovespizza.com

Top Shelf

Don’t Forget to EAT!
EAT! Vancouver: The Everything Food & Cooking Festival, is happening this weekend, from May 28 to 30, at the new Vancouver Convention Centre. eat-vancouver.com

Dining Out

In celebration of their 18th anniversary, Griffins Restaurant at The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver is offering 50 per cent off all dinner items, including appetizers, mains and desserts, between 4:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. daily, running now until the end of September. Call 604-662-1900 for reservations.

On June 29 at 7 p.m., join legendary food and wine connoisseur, Sid Cross, who is also Canada’s only member d’honneur of the Académie du Vin de Bordeaux, for a special Bordeaux and cheese tasting at Au Petit Chavignol. Allison Spurell will lead the cheese tasting. Tasting will be followed by coq au vin and dessert, with appropriate wine pairings. $100 per person. Call 604-255-4218 to reserve.

Food in Brief

Blue Water Café & Raw Bar took top honours at the recent VanMag Restaurant Awards, winning Restaurant of the Year, Best Seafood, and Chef of the Year for EC Frank Pabst.

In more awards news, Campagnolo was named Best New Restaurant, and Uva Wine Bar got the gold as Best Bar/Lounge.

The spot prawn season returns

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 20 May 2010 00:00:00 -0400

The annual spot prawn season is now in full swing, with at least another four weeks of availability.

For those of you wondering what all the fuss is about, here’s a little recap on what makes this little crustacean such a big deal, and some suggestions for spot-on dining.

Sustainability

The spot prawn is one of seven species of cold-water shrimp available on the West Coast. Cold-water shrimp are fast-growing, with high reproductive capacity, making them less vulnerable to depletion through fishing. They are also caught using baited traps on long lines, so the by-catch is low (meaning no dolphins in your bisque).

Taste

Spot prawns are on the large size, with a firm, sweet flesh that takes kindly to all manner of preparation, from ceviche to grilled, boiled and bisque’d. They require very little in the way of washing or prepping, and the heads are as tasty as the tails.

If you’re wondering how to prepare these at home, pick up your fresh spot prawns from Fisherman’s Wharf on Granville Island or at your local fishmonger’s on the same day you want to eat them. If they are very fresh, they will keep in the fridge for a day or two, but the sooner you eat them, the tastier they’ll be. Give them a solid rinse, and then decide on whether to boil, barbecue or fry. With the good weather coming, this could be the perfect outdoor grill item, especially if you save the heads for deep-frying later (thanks to my friend Ryan for that tip). They cook incredibly fast, so keep your eye on them — a few seconds on a grill and off they go.

Here are a few suggestions for spot prawn dining:

Refuel Restaurant
Sit at the bar on any Saturday in May (reservations required) for the $65 three-course spot prawn boil. Includes watercress and potato salad, a large boil of spot prawns, housemade chorizo, clams and spring vegetables served directly on the bar over newspaper, and dessert.

1944 West 4 Ave.
604-288-7905
www.refuelrestaurant.com

Le Gavroche
A $35 three-course spot prawn and lobster menu lets you choose from seared spot prawns with mango piri-piri sauce, lobster bisque, lobster Thermidor, fresh spot prawns with cavaletti and lobster, and more.

1616 Alberni St.
604-685-3924
www.legavroche.ca

Coast Restaurant
Three courses for $49 or order a la carte items like spot prawn ceviche in citrus vinaigrette ($14), a half-pound of peel-and-eat spot prawns ($16), fresh B.C. lingcod with spot prawn tempura ($32) or grilled Queen Charlotte Island halibut with spot prawn risotto ($38).

1054 Alberni St.
604-685-5010
www.coastrestaurant.ca

Maenam
Three courses for $65 or order à la carte items like spot prawn satay with turmeric, coconut cream and cucumber relish ($15), hot and sour spot prawn soup with lemongrass, galangal, and chilli jam ($14 for two people), or ceviche with fresh coriander, mint and nahm jim sauce.

1938 West 4 Ave.
604-730-5579
www.maenam.ca

C Restaurant
The grand spot prawn tasting menu is $79 for a five-course menu and includes spot prawn sunomono, spot prawn bisque, spot prawn risotto with tomato consommé and sweet peas, and lamb shank with spot prawn.

2-1600 Howe St.
604-681-1164
www.crestaurant.com

New releases
It’s fresh and light, with candied fruit flavours and a seemingly inexhaustible supply of tiny bubbles. Villa Teresa Rose Veneto is an organic bubbly that is light enough to enjoy on its own on these endless summer eves, or pair with light, chilled seafood, or alternately, snacks like roasted soy beans. BCLS $15.99.

The resurgence of afternoon tea

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 13 May 2010 08:00:00 -0400

Chalk it up to the recent release of Alice in Wonderland, or the general rise in popularity of tea shops, but it seems the British habit of afternoon tea has permanently crossed the Atlantic and is here to stay. That mid-day plug of teensy sandwiches (with crusts cut off), scones with Devonshire cream and jam, and assorted sweets, all washed down with a nice pot of infused leaves, certainly has its attractions, especially for the female element. (In fact, during my rounds, I saw only one male “enjoying” afternoon tea, and that was with his mother.) Not all teas, however, are created equal.

The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver recently started a “Princess and the Tea” promotion ($36 for adults, $16 for children, daily from 2 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.), offering an afternoon tea apparently geared towards the under-12 set and their 'rents. The child’s tea came with two (very) small finger sandwiches, one PB&J, one ham and cheese. A couple of small, plain scones, a chocolate cookie, and a mini fruit tart completed the offering. My wee one gobbled everything up, and then started looking for more.

Our “adult” teas weren’t much larger and all of the sandwiches had obviously been sitting out for a while, as they were slightly stale. Our raisin scones were heavy and on the dry side, although the caramel profiteroles shaped like swans were interesting to look at. The actual tea selection was better than the food, although the child’s “bubblegum” tea was really just one of the herbal selections with a couple of gumballs served on the side. Despite the lunch we’d all had earlier that day, we left distinctly hungry and had to make a pit stop for tortas on the way home.

Flash forward to The Secret Garden Tea Company ($25.95 for adults, $16.95 for children, daily at noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m.) in Kerrisdale a few days later. The absolutely brilliant tea included, among other things, roasted red pepper and goat cheese pesto in bannock bread, apple-chicken croissants, stunning, light lemon tarts, tender scones, and heart-shaped sandwiches for the princess. It was all so good that I came back by myself for a repeat performance the next day. It’s called high tea here, which isn’t technically correct, as this refers to an early evening meal with cold meats or meat pastries. But call it what you will, it’s delicious, and excellent value for the price points.

Another good choice is The Fish House in Stanley Park, where $24 gets you a traditional, hearty, afternoon tea, with good service and park views. Everything is made fresh, and the selection of teas and herbal infusions is well thought out. Also, Fleuri Restaurant at the Sutton Place Hotel does a daily afternoon tea between 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. for the same price, with some inventive items like raspberry chicken salad, and cucumber-endive with guacamole spread, plus it was nice to see that not all hotels gauge for tea leaves and tartlets.

Secret Garden Tea Co. | 5559 West Boulevard | 604-261-3070 | www.secretgardentea.com
Fairmont Hotel Vancouver | 900 West Georgia St | 604-684-3131 | www.fairmont.com
The Fish House | 8901 Stanley Park Drive | 604-681-7275 | www.fishhousestanleypark.com
Fleuri at Sutton Place | 845 Burrard St | 604-682-5511 | www.vancouver.suttonplace.com

Can You See the Pink Elephant?

There are no elephants, and it’s not on an island (in fact, it’s right here in B.C.), but Elephant Island Orchard Winery’s Pink Elephant 2008 Sparkling Rosé, just released, might have you seeing some of the latter. A Granny Smith apple cuvee is paired with cassis for a tart currant and green apple start, with a sweeter cassis finish. Great in the flute or mixed in a cocktail. $24.99 at elephantislandwine.com or private wine stores.

Top Shelf

The 2011 Theme Region for the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is Spain, with the global focus being fortified wine. The wine festival will take place from March 28 to April 3, 2011.

Dining Out
Bring on the Boil
Refuel (1944 West 4 Ave) is now hosting their annual Spot Prawn Boil every Saturday night during May at 6 p.m. or 8:30 p.m. Only 12 spots available per seating, so book early. $65 for three courses includes watercress and new potato salad, the spot prawn boil with chorizo, clams and vegetables, and peanut parfait. Call 604-288-7905 to reserve.

Raise a Glass to Whistler Brewing
On May 16, Cru (1459 West Broadway) celebrates the beers of Whistler Brewing Company by hosting a five-course dinner paired with beers from the local brewery. Tickets are $70 and can be purchased at www.vancouvercraftbeerweek.com.

Food in Brief

Kurtis Kolt, formerly of Salt Tasting Room, and recently named Sommelier of the Year, is now Wine Director at Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa.

The East Vancouver Farmers’ Market is now up and running at John Hendry Park at Trout Lake, every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. through the season.

Top Chinese dishes honoured

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 06 May 2010 03:47:12 -0400

May is Asian Heritage Month in Canada, so when my friend Stephanie Yuen, chair of the judging panel for the recent Chinese Restaurant Awards, asked if I wanted to join her and a few other like-minded aficionados on a little dine-around to sample some of the winning dishes, I could not, in good conscience —and lusting palate — say no.

We started at Ken’s Chinese Restaurant (1097 Kingsway), which won this year for its pink scallop dish, baked live in the half-shell, and doused in a light curry. Ken’s also won this year in the Alaska King Crab/Lobster category, for their braised lobster with taro noodles, cooked in a clay pot. The noodles were plump and tied into little bundles, and mixed with chunks of ginger, steamed vegetables and broth.

Next stop was Shanghai Village (3250 Cambie St.), which won the Most Innovative Signature Dish award for their stir-fried fish noodles with enoki mushrooms. The noodles are actually made from fish, and are tossed with the mushrooms and red pepper for a delectable slurpy meal. We also had some of their aromatic soups, which didn’t win any awards, surprisingly enough. These are brewed for several days in enormous clay pots, and change frequently. One day, it might be a tonic for the nerves, another day it’ll pep up your love life.

Our last stop for the night was at Lin Chinese Cuisine (1537 West Broadway), where we tried their winning dish for Northern/Shanghai dim sum. The chicken fenpi salad was an amazing noodle dish of wide, clear, glossy yam noodles mixed with diced chicken and cucumber, and a luscious peanut sauce that you liberally spoon over your serving. Last year, Lin won in the same category for their xiao long bao — juicy dumplings. These are hand-rolled by Mrs. Lin herself — she makes about 1,200 daily — and you can watch her rolling away behind the glass partition and you bite into these steamed, broth-filled wonders. The restaurant also won this year for best Chinese dessert with their 8-treasure sweet rice, which was packed with — among other things — raisins, sugar, nuts, dates, dried cherries, and much sugar.

Our nine-course sampling that night barely broke the surface of what’s out there for diners to explore, but hey, the restaurants aren’t going anywhere.

For more information on the Chinese Restaurant Awards, visit www.chineserestaurantawards.com.

New releases
From the southern corner of the Golden Mile Bench comes a new — and old — little winery named Rustico Farm & Cellars. The old-vine grapes here were formerly used by other local wineries, but in 2007, proprietor Bruce Fuller took over and the estate winery was born. The 2008 Farmer’s Daughter Gewürztraminer has a tart, citrusy palate, with a nose of lavender and roses. Available at Liberty Wine Merchants, Yaletown Liquor Store and other private wine stores for $17.95.

Red Card steps up its game

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Red Card Sports Bar
900 Seymour St.
604-689-4460
www.redcardsportsbar.ca

Rating: *** 1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $65
Signature Dish: Margherita pizza
Signature Drink: R&B Raven Cream Ale

Sports bars aren’t normally on my radar for gastronomically-interesting fare, but I reasoned that any place that opens up in the Moda Hotel and has Uva Wine Bar and Cibo Trattoria as its neighbours, must be bringing something a little extra to the table. Certainly, the room, with its glossy black surfaces, deep red leather wing chairs, and mirrored walls—not to mention the profusion of widescreens—is in keeping with the overall décor of the building. The service, under GM Annette Rawlinson, is easy and fluid, and the sound levels—despite this being a sports bar open during the Word Cup build-up—are more than bearable.

As with most bars, beer plays a starring role on the drinks line-up. Over 15 drafts, plus eight Canadian, a dozen U.S., and over two dozen international craft selections round out the offerings. There are also some very reasonable reds and whites available by the glass, as well as a great selection of bottles—especially on the B.C. front. Names like Therapy Vineyards and Laughing Stock are a welcome sight, and even California’s Camus gets a showing.

One thing that is a little off-putting was the non-alcoholic selection. This seems to be a growing trend on drinks lists across town, with places like C Restaurant and Market joining the fray. The selection at Red Card, however, looks like it’s designed to appeal to the six-year-old set, what with all the pureed strawberry and raspberry concoctions, not to mention the peach, passionfruit, etc—and I don’t see many six-year-olds frequenting this establishment. Something a little more refreshing would make a nice addition here, along the lines of elderflower water, hibiscus ice tea or even some of that oh-so-prolific Pellegrino Aranciata. As for the food…

On my first visit, I found the name of this glossy new pad a little ironic, because that was just what I wanted to do—give it a red card and remove it from the playing field—permanently. This was especially disappointing, given the recent addition of Andrea Wechselberger (formerly of Cin Cin and Oyama Sausage Company) as EC.

Unfortunately, despite the much-touted Marana Forni pizza oven—an expensive, authentic red brick Italian import—my four-cheese pizza ($14) arrived overcooked and over-salted, with unbalanced flavours. A starter of deep-fried mozzarella balls ($7) was more palatable, although the marinara sauce tasted canned.

Surprisingly, the one item I really enjoyed on that first visit was the dessert, a pistachio and ricotta-stuffed cannoli ($6) that was both sweet and tart, with excellent pastry. It wasn’t enough to make me enthusiastic about a return visit, but, in this case, it turned out to be a good thing that I always check out a place at least twice, if not more.

My second visit saw me trying the arancini ($8), perfectly deep-fried risotto balls that were moist inside and stuffed with mozza, prosciutto, and peas. The house burger ($15) was another winner, served with rosemary-crusted fries. A simple salad of baby lettuce and tomato, dressed in limoncello ($9) was an interesting and refreshing palate cleanser.

It was the third visit, however, that really impressed. Margherita pizza ($14)—a combination of fresh mozza, tomato sauce, and basil—is so simple that it’s equally simple to screw up. Red Card’s version, however, was perfect. The tomatoes were authentic San Marzano, the cheese was very fresh and it also helped that they have now switched to using traditional Caputo Tipo “00” flour, rather than your typical Robin Hood variety. The crust was thin, with the right amount of bubbling, the ideal crispness around the edges, and enough flexibility that you could—and possibly should—roll it up like a sausage, to prevent the slippery-slidey cheese from ending up on your shirt front. A simple plate of housemade tortelloni ($16) was also a good buy, stuffed with padano, ricotta and sage, and lightly tossed with chopped parsley and an excellent soffritto (diced and pan-fried carrots, onion and celery).

Despite its rocky start, Red Card now seems to have its head in the game, and the ambition to stay the distance. As for me, I will definitely be back for the pizza and cannoli—and maybe even a few games during Cup season.

Wine Fest: Australia’s Undiscovered Country
The Grampians regions of Western Victoria is situated between two enormous mountain ranges, making for a uniquely elevated, yet cool climate—ideal for growing Shiraz. Mount Langi Ghiran uses 80 to 100-year-old vines to produce their Billi Billi 2005 Shiraz. A mature tannic structure is balanced by the fruit-forward palate, and lush mouthfeel. $16.99 at Everything Wine and BCLS.

Top Shelf

In honour of Asian Heritage Month in May, Wild Rice has created a family-style sharing menu of both traditional and innovative dishes. Visit www.wildricevancouver.com for details.

Dining Out

Smoking Dog Bistro (1889 West 1 Ave) is offering a special Mother’s Day brunch, as well as a three-course set menu for dinner. For details call 604-732-8811 or visit www.thesmokingdog.com.

Red Card Sports Bar is holding a World Cup Kickoff event tonight from 7pm to 8pm. Guests include Osvaldo Ardilles, former member of the Argentinean World Cup team. No reservations needed, and entry is free, but space is limited. www.redcardsportsbar.ca

Food in Brief

Anndrey Durbach and Crhsi Stewart, owners of La Buca and Pied-a-Terre, have sold their L’Altro Buca location. In its place will be Adesso Bistro, featuring Ligurian cuisine.

Meanwhile, Durbach and Stewart have taken over the Ping’s space on Main, with no confirmed details yet on the menu or name. Stay tuned…

On the Web
Chew more on Anya’s blog at www.metronews.ca/vancouver/blog/136310

An Argentinean feast at festival

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 02:44:50 -0400

There is a popular premise that has taken hold over the last few years — to wit, that the best wine pairings for any cuisine are the wines that come from the same region as that cuisine.

Call it the oenophile’s version of 100-mile-dining. And there is some truth in this. Shared terroir often leads to ideal flavour combinations. But, as a recent dinner in conjunction with this week’s wine festival proved, mixing up regions can lead to a whole new world of palate exploration.

On Monday night, Coast Restaurant hosted Edgardo del Popolo, winemaker at Doña Paula, a noted Argentinean winery whose vineyards are situated in the mountainous region of Mendoza. The theme of the dinner was “Argentine terroir meets coastal cuisine” and in keeping with that theme, Coast EC Josh Wolfe put together a menu that was based around the signature wines of that region.

Jumbo prawns marinated in garlic and cumin, served with mango tapenade and roasted, crushed cumin seeds, was matched with the Doña Paula Estate Torrontés. This is a grape that is new to B.C. wine drinkers, really only coming into prominence within the last eight months. This white varietal, native to Argentina, has a balanced acidity and fresh, with floral notes that linger on the palate.

A smoked sablefish and white bean empanada was paired with the “Naked Pulp” Viognier, so called because the grapes are left a little longer on the vine, until they’re slightly shrivelled, and the skins are not pressed, and are removed, so the “Naked Pulp” ends up with a bright acidity and a pleasant sweetness that matched well with the heartiness of the fish.

The next course, herb-crusted lamb rack with goat cheese and sweet corn ravioli, drizzled with a dried blueberry and red wine jus, came with a glass of the Alluvia, a Cabernet Franc that displays a solid palate of pepper, cloves and cinnamon, with a very interesting blackcurrant and mint nose.

The cream of the crop, however, was the Selección de Bodega Malbec, a deep violet — almost black — quaff with a beautiful nose of plum, liquorice, black cherries and dried herbs. It was matched by a chimichurri-rubbed striploin, served rare, that blew away our table. Forget red wine reductions and glazes, the tangy, fresh taste of this green sauce — made up of chopped parsley, garlic, thyme, oil and red pepper flakes — was a whole new way to eat steak, and I am willing to bet this particular pairing becomes the new miso aioli.

What this dinner showed most clearly is the amazing diversity and depth of Argentinean wine, and the amazing pairings that can result from it. I encourage all of you to head out over the next three days to the wine festival’s tasting rooms, try some of these amazing bottles for yourselves. For those who can’t make it, Everything Wine carries an extensive selection of Doña Paula and other Argentinean wines, in every price point.

In brief

David Gunawan has been appointed new Chef de Cuisine at West Restaurant, following the departure of chef Warren Geraghty.

Chocolatier-Pâtissier Thierry Busset will be opening up a new patisserie this fall, dedicated to cake, pastries, chocolates and Parisian-style macaroons. Yum-yum.

Dining out

Can’t make it to the Wine Fest?
Hamilton Street Grill (1009 Hamilton St) is holding two wine fest evenings on April 26 and 27, featuring wines from this year’s theme regions, Argentina and New Zealand. Enjoy three wines with three matching appetizers for $25 per person. Call 604-331-1511 to reserve.

Judas Goat does tapas right

Anya Levykh, Urban Foodie — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 02:07:35 -0400

Judas Goat
27 Blood Alley
Vancouver
604-681-5090
judasgoat.ca

Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $60
Signature Dish: Brisket Meatballs ($6)
Signature Drink: St. Urbans-Hof Riesling

Tapas has become a much-used and often-abused nomenclature for smallish, expensive plates of elaborately cooked food. Call them share plates, small plates, what have you, the result is usually the same—the need for a large falafel at the end of the meal.

Enter Judas Goat Taberna, brainchild of Sean Heather, of Irish Heather and Salt Tasting Room fame. The plates are small — most are the size of my daughter’s tea set — but the prices are small as well (think less than $40 per person on average for a lot of dishes), and the food is filling, comforting and fabulous.

The three of us tried almost everything on the menu, and that and a bottle of St. Urbans-Hof Riesling brought the bill to less than $130 and left us feeling like Christmas turkeys. The menu floats around Spain, Italy and France, with pit stops in Portugal and Greece.

White anchovy and salsa verde bruschetta ($2.25) was an absolute wonder of flavour combinations and caused a wee fight for the last piece. Pressed vegetables in fresh gazpacho ($7) was both lovely to look at, as well as eat. A large quartet of brisket meatballs in hearty tomato sauce ($6) was rich and moist, while slow-cooked sablefish topped with Israeli cous cous, lemon and smoked paprika ($9) was a thin, flaky fillet that melted at the touch of the fork. Even the desserts, like the dark, boozy Spanish coffee truffles ($5) and the dark chocolate tart with chili jam ($7) were small, palate-sating wonders.

It’s a menu that already draws food industry types on their nights out, and no doubt the rest of the city will follow in short order. The only thing missing is the space to seat everyone — but for food this good, I don’t mind waiting.

Gastown’s newest place to chill out

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Cork & Fin
221 Carrall St., Vancouver
604-569-2215
www.corkandfin.ca

Rating: **** 1/2
Signature Drink: A glass of grape, of course…
Signature Dish: Scallop ceviche
Dinner & drinks for 2: $100

Vancouver is blessed with many wine-forward restaurants, but to date I don’t believe I’ve seen a casual wine bar that strictly focused on seafood, until Cork & Fin opened up. Sure, there is braised lamb and roasted game hen on the menu, but as the name aptly suggests, this is a restaurant that focuses on fruits—both those of the vineyard, and of the sea. And it does so in a simple, elegant way that allows for some incredibly fresh and exciting palate experiences.

The room is a nice balance between the clean, modern lines of the partially-frosted picture windows and beautiful raw bar, and the original brickwork that marks another Gastown heritage building. The balcony eating area upstairs is sure to be a favourite with couples, especially as it’s probably the warmest spot in the restaurant. An early visit saw us sitting by those big, bright windows, and we were warned that it might be a little cool, and it was—bring a shawl. The sound system pipes out an eclectic mix of everything from B.B. King to Eric Clapton’s reggae version of Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door, and the servers act like they’ve been working together for years.

I normally don’t think much of bread that’s not baked in-house, but if you’re going to go with an outside supply, offering the olive oil bread from Mix Bakery—one of the best loaves in town, IMHO—is definitely the way to go. The fact that the restaurant serves it gratis and brings free refills without waiting for you to ask is just gravy.

I also liked that the plates, rather than being enormous and providing a large amount of white space around the food, were actually all normal sized—the same size as my dinner plates at home, in fact, possibly smaller—and the food actually filled up the plate. When you’re sitting at a small table for two, nothing is more annoying than those gargantuan plates that don’t leave room for your wine glass, let alone cutlery and the rest of the mise en place.

The wine list is small, select and very accessible. Everything, including four different bubbles, is available by the glass, half-litre and bottle, and includes keepers like Schloss Reinhartshausen’s 2008 Dry Riesling ($9 for a glass) and Pfaffenheim’s 2008 Gewürztraminer ($10). There are some cocktails, martinis and beers as well, but with the great selections on the bottle side, I didn’t feel the need to turn the page.

As for the food itself, the menu definitely focuses on the raw and chilled side of things, and does a very good job of it. Shrimp cocktail ($11) was a small overstuffed bowl of fresh, hand-peeled crustaceans, topped with a light, bourbon-laced cocktail sauce, and fresh chunks of avocado. Scallop ceviche ($12) was tangy, with a simple lemon-vinegar dressing, and topped with pea shoots, shredded snap peas, and micro greens. These were both excellent value for the price points.

M’s side of pommes frites ($6) were crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside, and accompanied by a surprisingly agreeable lemon aioli made with olive and canola oils, which had an almost custard texture. Dungeness crab ($11) was served in the form of a round cake, but was in fact simply a healthy portion of fresh, delicate crab over chilled, chunky gazpacho, with crackling and fresh avocado.

I tried a special for my main, the seared halibut ($16), which was perfectly cooked, flaky, topped with a slow-cooked quail’s egg and served over a carrot puree with sautéed corn, carrots, radishes and braised pork belly. We didn’t get to try the seafood towers, which offer shucked, steamed and cured seafood in small ($33) and large ($55) sizes, but from the happy looks on a neighbouring couple’s faces, this is worth going back for.

The only low point was the dessert. A dark chocolate mousse ($7) just wasn’t dark—or chocolate—enough, and was rather pedestrian. Poached pear in sabayon ($7) was marginally better, although the sabayon was more of a foam—rather than the airy custard it should have been—and became a little too watery in the dish.

Despite this, Cork & Fin offers a refreshingly simple menu at reasonable prices that is sure to be a hit with seafood lovers—including yours truly.

Wine Fest Preview: Torrontés from Argentina

With Argentina being one of the theme regions this year, this is a great opportunity to try out this lesser-known white varietal. One to taste: Michel Torino Cuma Organic Torrontés 2009. This yellow-green wine carries an aroma of florals, orange skins and stone fruit over a peachy palate with a slight bitter-lemon finish. BCLS $13.99.

Top Shelf

The Fourth Annual Sprouts Cookbook Awards are happening tonight at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks at 6:00 p.m. Tickets are $75 and proceeds will be donated to Vancouver East Cultural Centre. Call 604-688-6755.

Dining Out

Cherry Blossom Dining
Only two more days left to try the Sakura Hanami box at Miku Restaurant (1055 West Hastings St). In honour of cherry blossom season, the box offers several dishes in one, all with a pink blossom theme, including housemade tofu with pink syrup, futomaki with pink cod sugar, and green tea infused with Japanese plum and rose petals. Call 604-568-3900.

Rollback to 1973
On Friday, April 9, in honour of their 37-year anniversary, Romana Pizza (4660 Hastings St, Bby) will be offering their classic spaghetti with meat sauce for $3 and their small pepperoni pizza for $3.85 (the original 1973 prices). Visit romanarestaurant.com.

Food in Brief
Red Card Sports Bar has scored big time by catching Andreas Wechselberger, formerly of Cin Cin and Oyama Sausage Co, as their new executive chef.

Nathan Guggenheimer has been named the new Chef de Cuisine at DB Bistro Moderne after Chef Stephane Istel agreed to take over the opening of the Daniel Boulud’s latest DB Bistro in Singapore.

Poor Italian shows some richness of flavour

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:00:00 -0400

The Poor Italian
3296 East 1 Ave.
Vancouver
604-251-1122
pooritalian.com

Signature Drink: Prosecco
Signature Dish: Lamb rack

Rating: ***
Dinner & drinks for two: $100

Chef Gianni Picchi has always been a bit of an anomaly on the dining front. This former EC of Il Giardino, and former owner of Gianni’s in West Vancouver, was never one for refined aesthetics. His food was always more robust, a tad more rustic than his counterparts, and definitely without frills. It’s the food your grandmother might have made for you, if she was Italian and had the budget. It isn’t the type of food that is especially fashionable in upscale Italian restaurants these days, but it is rather comforting.

So, when I heard that Picchi had come out of retirement to open a restaurant with Tony Parsons (yes, that Tony Parsons), I already had an inkling of what to expect. Over the course of a couple of visits, my intuition proved—this time—to be fairly accurate.

The room is comfortable and cozy, with enough space between the tables to afford some privacy, and enough buzz to keep the energy up. The wine list could do with a few more selections by-the-glass, but the ones available were at least well chosen for their price point.

As for the menu, while not cheap, the prices are, for the most part, reasonable ($7 to $16 for starters; $14 to $30 for pastas and mains), although there were some exceptions, and several items were much higher than what was listed on the website. The portions are mainly gargantuan, which is probably a wise move given the location.

On our first visit we started with some truffled, sautéed mushrooms, which at $12 were more than a little overpriced for the small portion we received. They were tasty, aromatic, and rich, but I kept wondering if button mushrooms had gone up in price overnight. A large plate of oyster soup ($8.50) was more welcome, well-studded with the star ingredient, and a hit with the table, despite the cream being on the thin side.

We decided to share a plate of the seafood risotto ($22.50) after that. This could easily work as a starter for three or more people, had a healthy amount of quality seafood—large prawns, mussels, clams, scallops—and was perfectly cooked. From the mains, veal saltimbocca ($28) was delicious, if slightly over-salted (the prosciutto provided as much salt as was necessary all by itself). The lamb rack ($30) was the favourite of the evening, and was fork-tender, although the jus it came in could have used a little more reduction time. Both mains came with the same grouping of vegetables, a motley assortment of steamed spinach, asparagus, roasted golden beets, roasted potatoes, and pickled red cabbage.

We managed to squeeze in some dessert. A mascarpone-stuffed pear ($7) was disappointing, but a lemon millefoglie (like the French mille feuille) for the same price was stand-out, with thick cream perfectly balanced between crisp wafers.

The Poor Italian offers reasonable food at fairly reasonable prices, and will no doubt be a draw to East Side residents who don’t relish a trek downtown for some decent chow.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with a twist

As a label, Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush might not be the epitome of class, but the gooseberry reference is pretty accurate. And, despite the name, this is a damned tasty wine, courtesy of Cooper’s Creek Winery just outside of Auckland. Fresh, clean, mineral and citrus flavours, pairs well with chilled seafood. BCLS $15.99.

Top Shelf

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is launching on April 19, and some tickets are still available. Visit playhousewinefest.com for details.

Food in Brief

West has announced that Chef Warren Geraghty will be departing the restaurant for destinations unknown sometime in the near future. No word yet on his replacement.

Chef Quang Dang of C Restaurant will be leaving in a few weeks to take over the reins at Diva at the Met, following Chef Dino Renaerts new partnership with Fraîche and the former Crave Beachside in West Vancouver.

Elevated pizza at Charlie's in Yaletown

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:14:44 -0400

Charlie’s
1265 Hamilton St.
Vancouver
604-568-6685
charlielovespizza.com

Rating: ****
Dinner & drinks for two: $90
Signature Dish: Poutine pizza
Signature Drink: Caesar

The long line of restaurants that have passed through the doors in quick succession at 1265 Hamilton has been a sad and sorry spectacle in what should have been prime resto real estate. Businesses like Pinky’s, a coffee shop and sundry others came and went without leaving their mark, and I feared the location was irredeemable. That is, until recently, when Charlie’s opened, and—to my mind—successfully chased the ghosts of restaurants past away.

It may be in a formerly cursed location, but I think this is the formula that will prove successful. Charlie’s menu is simple (only two mains) and largely focuses on one thing—but that one thing is done extremely well. Well, that and the cocktails—the Caesar ($10), for instance, is stand-out and made from scratch.

In case you’re still at a loss, it’s the pizza that makes this such a fab joint. Thin crusts that you can fold in on themselves in true southern-Italian style—I think the last time I tasted such an amazing crust was actually in Naples—are topped with high quality ingredients in inventive, smart combinations. And for those who feel that the true Neapolitan crust must be charred and crispy to fit the bill—I suggest you stop by Piazza de Gesu on your next trip to Naples and sample the margherita at Cibo before passing judgement.

One night saw us trying the poutine pizza ($19) which was almost too sinful. A bordelaise sauce was topped with mozzarella, cheese curds, shavings of fingerling potatoes, and rosemary sea salt. The short rib ($25) was even better, spread with tomato sugo, slow-braised short rib, caramelized onion, cheese and a horseradish cream that could sing a capella if it wanted.

Another night had us sampling the duck ($25), which was smothered in porcini mushroom sauce, smoked duck, portobellini mushrooms, tallegio cheese and—heaven—a bit of truffle oil.

Mix one of these pies with a drink like the Champers Thyme ($11), a fresh cocktail of Hendricks, apple, cucumber and mint, and you have insta-love on the palate. A word of warning, however: These pies are not individually sized. Each is large enough to feed at least two moderately hungry people.

Desserts were hit-and-miss, with a meringue plate ($8) lacking cohesion, while a banana pie over shortbread crust ($10) was a wonder. But that’s no biggie, because what you should be coming here for are the mouth-licious pizzas and the wicked drinks. And that is plenty.

Milkshakes are the new Manhattan
It is officially spring, and what could tastier on a warm, spring day—or even a cold, wet one—than a frothy milkshake? For something different, try the PB&J at Society. Yes, that’s right, this milkshake is a mix of smooth peanut butter ice cream and strawberry jam, topped with the requisite dollop of cream. No peanut butter ice cream at home? Substitute with Reese’s peanut butter cups for a chocolate-peanut butter twist.

Dining Out
Dining by Candlelight
This Saturday, March 27 is Earth Hour. Support positive climate change and reduce your carbon footprint by dining by candlelight at one of these fine restaurants: C, Elixir Bistro, Miku, Nu, Raincity Grill, and Yew. Check individual restaurant websites for details.

Something’s Fishy
April 1 marks the French holiday of Poissons d’Avril, and in honour of the event, Provence Marinaside (1177 Marinaside Crescent) will be once again celebrating with a very fishy menu, indeed. From sablefish to sardines, this is a menu you won’t want to miss. Call 604-681-4144 for details and reservations.

Eating for Charity
Dine Out for Life is this Thursday, March 25! Over 230 restaurants from Whistler to White Rock are taking part, so don’t miss your chance to breakfast, lunch or dine for a great cause. diningoutforlife.com/Vancouver

In Brief
English Bay Expansion
It’s official, The Cactus Club Group of restaurants has won the bid to operate the restaurant that will be part of the new concession/dining space at English Bay.

Now Open
Relish GastroPub & Bar is now open at 888 Nelson Street for lunch, dinner and late night drinks. Check out the gnocchi poutine.

Clean, rich flavours dominate at Oru

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 05:00:00 -0400

Oru
1038 Canada Place
Vancouver
604-695-5500
orucuisine.com

Signature Drink: Geisha
Signature Dish: Shoyu ramen with Berkshire pork

Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90

The piano was the first thing to draw my eye. This, despite the monolithic expanse of glass surrounding the new Fairmont Pacific Rim hotel lobby, the light wood and marble accents, and the floating origami sculpture that beckoned like a sly dragon to the upstairs dining area. Truth is, the white Fazioli grand—think Steinway, but with richer tone—brought out my inner music geek as I contemplated how Rachmaninoff would sound on an instrument like that.

I tore myself away eventually, wiped the drool off my shirt, and headed upstairs to check out the more intimate setting of Oru, the hotel’s flagship restaurant and the new home of executive chef David Wong, a former Bocuse d’Or finalist who placed in the top ten worldwide.

The room, like the rest of the hotel, was designed by North Vancouver-based architects McFarlane Green Biggar, and is a minimalist monument to sustainable design. A long, white oak wall—cut and laid to mimic the folded sections of the origami sculpture above—bisects the room, along with a communal dining table, and separates the space between the banquet seating and open-concept kitchen. MGB, along with local artist Joseph Wu, are also responsible for the 180-foot-long origami sculpture, which doubles as a light fixture.

As for the food, it exhibits the same clean, sustainable focus as the interior. Wong is a master of ramen, and his handmade noodles are slurp-licious. One version with shoyu—a dark salty soy sauce—and slow-braised Berkshire pork belly ($15) was an amazing mix of clean, rich, fat, salt and crunch (the latter came from the fresh bamboo shoots). A hot and sour broth ($9) with early B.C. spot prawns, shimiji mushrooms and a dash of chili oil was an aromatic and heady bowl, poured over the solids table-side. Most dishes are made to share tapas-style, so count on ordering about four or five for two people. There are some mains that can stand alone, if you wish, like the phenomenal chawanmushi ($26), a round plate of egg-based savoury custard topped with seared Qualicum Bay scallops and braised daikon. A small version of the mou shou duck ($12) was scented with star anise and sided with steamed buns. There weren’t enough buns to handle the meat, however, so we had to make do with our chopsticks.

The hotel offers still and sparkling filtered water—they carbonate the latter themselves—and although it cost us $8 for a carafe of the sparkling, it was refilled throughout our meal at no charge. And, admittedly, it’s a nice way of minimizing waste from water bottles.

This might be just the latest luxe offering in the Fairmont’s collection, but with the sustainable interior and menu—and the sustainable prices—the sustainability of this restaurant’s future is looking very green indeed.

Pfaffenheim’s Spring Release

The cherry blossoms are falling, the crocuses are blooming, and, despite the snow on the mountains, spring is almost here. Pfaffenheim’s 2008 Gewürztraminer is an interesting mix of spicy pepper and nutmeg notes with an almost floral aroma. Perfect with stronger cheeses, fruit desserts, or some boiled lobster. BCLS $19.99.

Top Shelf

Earth Hour is on March 27. Save some watts and dine by candlelight at restaurants like Yew at the Four Seasons, Raincity Grill, or Blue Water Café. Visit individual restaurant websites for details.

Dining Out

Lobster Fest!
Le Gavroche’s (1616 Alberni St) annual lobster festival is on now until April 18. Enjoy a lobster-packed three-course meal for $35 (optional wine pairings for $25). Menu options include lobster-grapefruit salad, seared lobster with lamb sweetbreads, lobster Thermidor, lobster with beef tenderloin, and desserts. Call 604-685-3924 for reservations.

Go Whole Hog
On March 21, Mis Trucos (1141 Davie St) will host a Spring BBQ Kickoff. $50 includes a full meal, starting with Barnholden’s signature tapas, followed by an all-you-can-eat spread of roast suckling pig, BBQ beef ribs, grilled wild salmon, grilled sausages and more. Beer, sangria and cocktails included. All proceeds go towards the Give a Better Life Foundation. Call 604-566-3960 for tickets.

Food in Brief

Judas Goat Taberna, the latest Blood Alley offering from Sean Heather, is now officially open and serving Spanish-style tapas.

The historic Salt Building (85 West 1 Ave) will soon be home to a restaurant, coffee shop, bakery and brewpub under the Mark James umbrella of companies.

Corner Suite delivers soul food in deluxe style

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 05:00:00 -0400

The Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe
850 Thurlow St.
Vancouver
604-569-3415
thecornersuite.com

Signature Drink: Giada
Signature Dish: Chicken liver terrine

Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a restaurant receive quite so much press before it had even opened. For the last seven months, it seems all everybody could talk about was the yet-again-delayed opening of Corner Suite. The addition of Anthony Sedlak as EC certainly had something to do with all the hoopla. Then, just as the restaurant had finally opened, out went a press release. Sedlak was no more. Book and TV opportunities won out over a hot kitchen, and the restaurant was left with executive sous chef Jason Leizert picking up the slack and donning the head hat.

I didn’t know what to expect, but figured that any chef who had previously run his own kitchen (Leizert has) and been chosen to work with Sedlak (who has never run a kitchen), must have something going for him. Three visits later, I had come to several conclusions.

First, the room. It’s bloody marvellous. Everything from the heavy silverware and polished black tables with their built in slots for your napkin, to the light blue dining chairs—made in Belgium, dipped in natural rubber, and super-extra-duper comfy—and the row of chandeliers, speaks of a fabulousness that leaves no room for pretension or snobbery. What there is room for is an excellent glass of wine, or a cocktail from the thirty-page encyclopaedia they call a drink list, along with lovely plates of French-based bistro fare.

And speaking of wines, all are available by the half-glass, full glass, carafe or bottle. I tried a half-glass of the lovely 2005 Château Rouselle Côtes de Bourg ($5.50). This is a wine that is normally sold only by the bottle, especially for this vintage year. The mark-ups seem lower than usual, and the selection—orchestrated by the talented Sebastien le Goff and Kurtis Kolt—is one of the best I’ve seen this past year in this price range.

As for the food, there is only one word for such well-priced, well-presented fare, and that word is splendid. Even the complimentary gougeres—little drops of pastry filled with gruyere—that come to each table as soon as you are seated, are tasty and inventive. The chicken liver pâté ($12) is so creamy as to almost rival foie, and dishes like the bacon and onion Alsatian tart ($14) or the veal cheeks with gnocchi and caramelized carrots ($25) are hearty, comfortable dishes that are perfectly executed. We also appreciated the kitchen’s initiative when it plated a shared main as two separate dishes, without us having to ask. That attention is visible everywhere, like with the complimentary meringues that came with our bill.

Of special note was the cheese menu, which is almost two pages and sorted according to the characteristics—washed rind, hard, soft, goat, buffalo, etc.

My only quibble came with the service on an early visit. The staff is pleasant and friendly, if occasionally inattentive, but the lack of numbers on the floor made for a slammed restaurant and waits of 20 minutes or more for drinks, mains, and bills. This is a problem that time will hopefully fix, and our later visits were free of further problems.

As for the what-might-have-been, I’m sure if Sedlak had stayed, the food would still be very good. His touch is all over the menu, and it is well-thought-out. But the execution is all Leizert, and it is impeccable. I predict that Corner Suite will have a long and happy run, celebrity chef or no.

Top Shelf

Don’t forget! Dining Out for Life happens on March 25, with hundreds of restaurants across the province donating 25 per cent of food revenues to local organizations that support people living with AIDS. Visit diningoutforlife.com for details.

Dining Out

Local Support
As a thank you to local restaurant goers, the Glowbal Group of Restaurants (Glowbal Grill, Coast, Sanafir, Italian Kitchen, Trattoria and Sanafir) is offering 30 per cent off of all lunch food items between March 15 and 25, Monday to Friday. Visit glowbalgroup.com for details.

Food in Brief

Chef Dino Renaerts, former executive chef at Diva at the Met, has taken over the reigns at Fraîche and Crave Beachside in West Vancouver. Chef/owner Wayne Martin will focus his attention on Crave on Main.

Chinese brasserie brings new vibe to old hood

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 05:00:00 -0400

Bao Bei
163 Keefer St.
Vancouver
604-688-0876
http://www.bao-bei.ca

Signature Drink: Madame Chiang
Signature Dish: Mantou Buns

Rating: ***
Dinner & drinks for two: $85

It’s been a sad fact for far too long that the best Chinese food in the Lower Mainland is not in Chinatown. Despite Richmond’s near-monopoly on mouth-watering dim sum, however, virtually none of those heavy-hitters are places where you would go for a cocktail with that bowl of congee.

Enter Tannis Ling, former barkeep at Chambar, and owner of Bao Bei, a self-styled Chinese brasserie that just opened up in Chinatown, around the corner from old-timers like New Town Bakery. In the kitchen is Joel Watanabe (formerly of Bin 942, Araxi and La Brasserie).

The room will definitely attract the hipster crowds. The retro neon sign outside ushers you into a long rectangle of white-washed walls adorned with sundry items like old silver tea trays, mounted butcher knives, also painted white, and something that, at first glance, looked like a large blood stain near the back of the room. (Don’t worry, it’s not.)

For a place run by a bartender, I was surprised to see only five cocktails (two were added by a later visit) on the menu, but these are an interesting selection, balanced out with lots of fresh herbs, juices and quality hooch. The rest of the liquids list is made up of ten Asian beers, a couple of sakes (Gekkeikan was an odd choice here, but One’s Pearl makes up for it), and some bottles. The latter are all available by the glass, with the exception of the champagne, and hail mainly from France, Australia and Spain. All of the by-the-glass selections—as well as the beers and most of the cocktails—are under $10.

On our first visit, the Madame Chiang ($9) stood out, a simple blend of gin, Fernet Branca and fresh grapefruit. The Mimi ($8), an interesting combination of Zubrowka—the bison grass vodka—with fresh beet and pear juice, was a little too strange on the palate to order again, but it would probably appeal to those looking for a “different” experience.

As for the food, the prices here are equally accessible. All of the “schnacks” are $4, and include items like the tasty crispy fishies; tiny whole dried anchovies laced with peanuts and chilies. These are a common snack in China, although there they’re usually tossed in rice flour and deep-fried, which gives an extra-crispy coating. Crispy daikon cakes with Chinese sausage—made in-house—dried shrimp and mushrooms, was another interesting offering, although it could have used a little more intensity.

Pot stickers are $5 to $7, and were less impressive. A steamed prawn with chives version just fell apart at the touch of the chopsticks, while the pork dumplings were fairly tasteless. The soups are large Buddha bowls stuffed with the likes of braised shortrib and daikon, or barbecue pork and watercress. The fish noodle version ($15) was a favourite, with house made fish balls, clams, prawns and fresh herbs.

The “petits plats chinois,” which make up the bulk of the offerings, mainly hover between $6 and $12, although the Manila clams are $17.50. There were hits and misses here. Beef tartare ($12) with quail egg and burnt scallion oil was light and fresh, but the Vietnamese pork pâté ($6) was chilled hard, difficult to cut, with a crumbly texture, and a lacklustre showing of the main ingredient. The slices of skinny toast it came with were fairly redundant, since the pâté refused to spread. I noticed that on my last visit, it had disappeared from the menu.

Steamed Mantou buns with braised shortrib ($9) were much better. These are deconstructed flat buns topped with the shredded rib, scallions, and pickled cucumbers, and were comfortable handfuls. Shao bing ($8) were excellent braised pork butt sandwiches on well-toasted sesame flatbread, with Asian pear, pickled veggies and mustard greens. The bahn mi trung ($8) was an interesting take on a classic Vietnamese sub, with more of that housemade Chinese sausage, a free-range omelette, pickled daikon and a chili-garlic mayo, and was quite delicious, if a little unwieldy in size. Duck congee ($11) was aromatic, but the main ingredient seemed to be in absentia.

Bao Bei has a lot going for it, and I’m sure will be a popular draw in an area that could certainly use a bit of an economic lift. The blips on the menu will hopefully even out over time, and I foresee a long and successful run for the new kid on the old block.

A drink worthy of the Mad Hatter

With Alice in Wonderland opening in theatres tomorrow, here’s a drink to celebrate “tea time” in a whole new way. I substituted simple syrup for sugar, but both work equally well.

Hendrick’s Time
½ oz Hendrick’s Gin
Dash of fresh lemon juice
Lime peel, curled
Stick of cinnamon
1 cup white tea
Sugar to taste

Combine all ingredients in tea cup, stir with cinnamon stick, and add a few drops of simple syrup or sugar to reach desired sweetness. And a very merry, un-birthday to you!

Top Shelf
Laughing Stock Vineyard has opened their futures offering of Portfolio 2008, their signature Bordeaux-style blend. At $35 per bottle, these will go fast. Visit http://www.laughingstock.ca for details.

Dining Out

Date Night
Cru Restaurant (1459 West Broadway) has introduced a weekly Thursday-night “date night” menu, offering three courses for two people, with wine, for $99. Menu selections include Riesling-poached Anjour pear with mustard greens and Poplar Grove tiger blue cheese, roasted Fraser Valley duck breast, and chocolate truffle torte. Call 604-677-4111 for reservations.

Hollywood at Opus
This Sunday, March 7, Elixir Bistro (350 Davie St) will be offering a three-course dinner in honour of the Oscars. $30 for three courses, and $20 for optional wine pairings. Special $25 appetizer platters will be available in Opus Lounge as well. Email jdunn@opushotel.com for reservations.

Food in Brief

Openings 2.1
Charlie’s Restaurant & Bar at 1265 Hamilton St is now officially open, serving artisan pizzas and crafty cocktails.

Also open is The Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe at 850 Thurlow St, although without TV star Anthony Sedlak as its chef. Sedlak’s TV and book obligations have apparently taken over his schedule.

Fare finally beats the view

Anya Levykh, FOR METRO VANCOUVER — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0400

The Teahouse
7501 Stanley Park Dr.
www.vancouverdine.com

Rating: ***
Dinner & drinks for 2: $100

Waterfront fine dining in Vancouver has always presented as a bit of an oxymoron. In many cases, it seems the better the view—the worse the meal. The Teahouse in Stanley Park was, to my mind, no exception to that rule for many years, during which it was also briefly known as The Sequoia Grill. Then last year, the current owners cottoned on that the concept, the name, the menu—in short, everything—were all bunk and could use a wee bit of refurbishment.

Step 1: Give the restaurant its old, World War II-inspired name back. Check. After several months of waiting, the next step was taken, and new executive chef Francois Gagnon—formerly of Lumière, Blue Water Café, and Cin Cin—came on board with a complete menu redesign. Check. And now—after several visits—the results.

The current menu has more of a bistro feel to it, with steak frites, mussels and poutine equally at home with sablefish, Qualicum scallops and some old favourites that survived the purge, notably the carrot soup with fennel and crème fraîche ($7). The last impressed all of us with its rich, fragrant base, as did a side of mac and cheese ($6) that was baked with gruyère and parmigiano.

The croque madame ($15) was tasty, if overpriced, but the similarly-priced AAA burger, with portobello and caramelized onions, was worth every penny, especially when sided with the classic poutine (we subbed out the regular fries for an extra $3).

The well-portioned steak and frites ($18) was excellent value, well done and the fries were salty enough to match the sea air outside. Arctic char ($24) was one of the more inventive dishes on the menu, thanks to the accompanying black perogi made from squid ink and stuffed with potato and bacon. We finished that evening with a delightful poached pear and mascarpone chantilly cream ($8).

On another visit, a charcuterie plate ($11) was much less impressive—downright disappointing, in fact, with unoriginal selections of ham and other mystery meats, and not enough bread. A starter of cured salmon ($13.50) with an overly chilled herbed crème fraîche struck another odd note, due to the odd bits of (likely canned) orange and pineapple randomly strewn across the plate, along with capers. (Note: capers and canned “citrus” are not a match made in palate heaven.)

The desserts redeemed things slightly, although the vanilla and honey crème brulée ($8) lacked any distinguishable hint of honey, and the molten chocolate cake ($8) was too boring to be enjoyed.

The restaurant’s strengths are definitely with its comfort dishes—burger, steak, mussels, etc.—and it does those very well. There’s even a hint of imagination—although in some cases, it seems to have run a bit wild. It’s definitely now a much better match to the spectacular views, and hopefully, will continue to improve and evolve under Gagnon’s expert hands.

New releases
We all know about ice wine, but ice cider? Created by Quebec native Francois Pouliot, the cider is made through the alcoholic fermentation of the juice of frozen, pressed apples. Neige ice cider is a rich amber with the fresh snap of apple, and a hint of vanilla in the finish. Serve cold with nutty cheeses or milky desserts. Taste it at Quebec House until the end of the Games or pick up a bottle at your local BCLS for $29.99.

Dining out

WINES
On March 7, Cru Restaurant (1459 W. Broadway) will present a winemaker’s dinner featuring the wines of B.C.’s Painted Rock winery. Four courses, including wine pairings, for $85 per person. Call 604-677-4111 for reservations.

FOUR COURSES
On Mar. 8, DB Bistro Moderne presents the next instalment of their winemaker’s dinners. Four courses, including wine pairings, for $75 per person. Full menu and details at www.dbbistro.ca. Reservations required.

Lupo delivers solid Italian comfort in a sleek new room

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Lupo
869 Hamilton St.
Vancouver
604-569-2535
luporestaurant.ca

Signature Drink: Prosecco
Signature Dish: Ricotta gnocchi

Rating: ****
Dinner & drinks for two: $100

The original Villa del Lupo was one of the first places I ever wrote about (almost a decade ago now). Back then, executive chef Julio Gonzalez Perini created a fine dining experience like no other, and I still fondly remember the wild boar stuffed with foie gras and morels that caused intensely amorous sensations on the palate.

The décor was more conducive to hushed whispers and a formal etiquette (no lolling in your chair here, if you please), and the wine list was serious—and seriously expensive. Villa was the place for fine dining in Yaletown, but then the restaurant changed hands, and Perini, along with his original GM and sommelier, Michael Mameli, went on to work at places like Cin Cin and The Beach House.

Today, several years later, Perini and Mameli are back together in the same heritage house, but there’s a whole new groove playing. A complete reno has wiped away all of the grand formality of the old restaurant. In its place are white-washed walls, dark wood floors, and comfortable chairs that demand some post-meal lounging. The volume has also gone up, and diners now laugh easily and talk eagerly. As for the food, the prices have come down, and the foie and white truffle might not be as plentiful as in days of yore, but the quality of the ingredients is without question, and the inspired and loving cookery of Perini is evident in every dish.

One visit had us starting with the raviolo ($9), an enormous square stuffed with spinach and ricotta, topped with a soft-poached egg, and drizzled with hazelnut butter. While I could have stood for more nut in my butter, the dreamy combination of the runny yolk with the ricotta and spinach stifled any grumbling. The focaccia ($5) is a soft, pillowy, baked round that is topped with paper-thin slices of zucchini. My tongue wanted more salt in the crust, but the bread was so moist that it rendered oil redundant.

A main of lamb shank ossobuco ($20) was less impressive. The meat itself was perfectly cooked, and yielded to my fork with ease, but lacked the infusion of flavour I expected from the rich sauce on top. In fact, the blandness led me to wonder if it had just been cooked in the nude, so to speak. The braised beef short ribs ($24), on the other hand, were just perfect—rich, intensely flavoured, and perfectly matched with a mascarpone polenta.

Another visit included an absolutely super-tasty-deluxe version of cream of cauliflower soup ($12). This was frothed with whipped cream, generously drizzled with truffle oil, and studded with cappelletti—translates as “pope’s hats”—that were stuffed with buffalo mozzarella. This was from the features list—which changes daily and is almost as large as the standing menu—but don’t worry, they have it pretty often.

We also tried the ricotta gnocchi ($14) topped with braised pork cheeks and a porcini sauce. This was just ridiculously good, especially with the stellar glass of Shiraz suggested by Mameli. By the bye, the wine list is a reason for coming unto itself. A healthy balance of Canadian and Italian bottles, many available by the glass, is nicely rounded out with Mameli’s own off-the-books collection in the cellar. Mameli himself is the ultimate wine yenta--tell him what you like, and he will find you a match.

Lupo, and its owners, have come full circle from where they started, and, judging by the new menu and room, one can say that the journey was more than worth it.

Ah, to be Young and “Wyse”

What do you get when you plant a family of two young winemakers, by name of Stephen Wyse and Michelle Young, on a fertile plot in Osoyoos? Some lovely artisan wines, including a luscious 2008 Shiraz that was bold enough to convert me from my ever-so-slightly-disdainful attitude to this varietal. A deep berry and dark chocolate nose sits over a rich palate of herbs, cooked berries and a hint of coffee. $23 direct from the winery or at private wine stores.

Top Shelf

Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro will be offering a jeroboam bottle of Moët et Chandon Brut Impérial to the first Olympic medalist—along with their friends, family and coaches—from each country. Don’t forget your medal.

Food in Brief

Auto-grat Alert
Does your bill seem a little higher these days? It may be because you didn’t notice the automatic gratuity that some restaurants have added to their bills during the Games. If you were caught unawares, you may have ended up leaving a tip of 30-40%, instead of the usual 15-20%.

If the service was that fantastic, kudos to you, but if not, better read your bill a little more carefully next time. The auto-grats are supposed to disappear after the Olympics conclude.

Put your heart into V-Day

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Go handmade and haute this Valentine’s Day

There is nothing like the cliché of roses and a box of chocolates to let that special someone know you care — at the last minute. Think quality over quantity, and always keep in mind the preferences of the object of your gift and affections.

Xoxolat
This lovely little shop is all about the organic and fair-trade beans, with a dose of single origin to spice things up. Choose from truffles like caramel fleur de sel, chipotle cinnamon, Kashmir cardamom and lemon ginger, and then wrap up the lot in of their beautiful bamboo gift boxes. (www.xoxolat.com)

Dutch Girl Chocolates
Organic, fair trade, and handmade in the back of the shop (you can see the action through the open window), the truffles at Dutch Girl are made for guilt-free pleasure. Bonus for vegans—Dutch Girl makes several dairy-free truffle varieties. (dutchgirl.shawbiz.ca)

Cocoa Nymph
The handmade truffles here are delightful — try Lucy in the Chai and Chariot of Fire — but their chocolate bars, like the white chocolate and dried cherry, are to die for. They also make old-fashioned English brittle toffee and other handcrafted treats. (www.cocoanymph.com)

Dulcinea
You won’t find truffles here, but what you will find is chocolate treats like the crushed biscotti chocolate balls, churros served with warm Spanish dipping chocolate, and cupcakes that will cause you to go into a sugar-induced vibrational tizzy. They are also doing choco-grams this Valentine’s. Available right up to the 14th, the café will call your recipient and have them come and pick up their treat and special message. (www.dulcineachocolatecafe.com)

Thomas Haas
Justifiably famous in Vancouver — and around the world — for his handmade chocolates, confections and pastries, Thomas Haas is still churning out his famous truffles and chocolate sparkle cookies by hand. Try the milk chocolate truffle perfumed with Champagne and eau de vie, or the dark chocolate with lemon zest and thyme. (www.thomashaas.com)

Dining out

Showcasing Seafood
Miku Restaurant (1055 West Hastings St.) will be offering special sashimi “Podium Platters,” showcasing seafood from the Tsukiji Fish Market in Central Tokyo. Offerings include yellowfin, flounder, red snapper, and amberjack. Choose from Bronze, Silver and Gold platters, $60-$150 each. Call 604-568-3900 for reservations.

5 restaurants for lovers—of food

Anya Levykh, Urban Foodie — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 04:34:10 -0400

Say “Valentine’s Day” and certain restaurant names can’t help springing to mind. But for those with a lust for something off the beaten tastes, here are some places that dish out love with every gutsy bite. Just don’t forget it’s a busy month, so make your reservations earlier rather than later.

Mis Trucos
1141 Davie St.
604-566-3960

Hidden away in a heritage house on Davie Street, Mis Trucos is easy to miss, but it’s worth the hunt, for what awaits you inside is a culinary wet dream. Chef Kris Barnholden’s inventive three-bites-large tapas range from the frothy foie gras mousse ($3.20) to the hedonistic wild venison tartar on toasted brioche with truffle and slow-cooked quail’s egg ($3.70). Larger plates include the perfectly cured arctic char with smoked caviar ($9) and the white truffle and lobster risotto with crème fraîche ($16). For dessert, try the poached pear with almond financier ($6) or Manchego cheese plate, and then go home before you eat too much.

Wild Rice
117 West Pender St.
604-642-2882

Feb. 14 marks the start of the Year of the Tiger, as well as Valentine’s Day, and Wild Rice is celebrating both in its typical, Zen, modern Chinese way. Most plates are made to share, but specialities like the Fraser Valley lamb pot stickers with truffled pea puree ($10), or the pan-roasted Haida Gwaii sockeye ($19) might cause fork-fights. Or you can choose the special four-course Year of the Tiger menu for $40 and feast on tiger-stripe sui mai, tiger rolls, and tiger beer-marinated bison flat iron steak. Wild Rice has always been a dairy-free establishment, so there are many options for vegans and their lovers as well.

Au Petit Chavignol
843 East Hastings St.
604-255-4218

There isn’t much in this world that screams “lust” more than Au Petit’s chicken liver and cognac terrine with apricot preserves ($9). Well, maybe the raclettes, or the fondues, or the pâtés, or the freshly-shaved slices of Iberico ham … you get the idea. Pair a selection of fresh bread, soft cheeses and rich terrines with anything off the wine list (they’ll do anything by the glass if you order two) and smear, wipe and chew to your mouth’s content. For something hot, try the luscious croque madame. For light eaters, Au Petit is offering a special Valentine’s menu, $40 for two people, which includes soup or salad, cheese fondue for two, and warm chocolate cookies for dessert.

La Quercia
3689 West 4 Ave
604-676-1007

On the western edge of West 4 Avenue sits the tiny Italian trattoria that serves up tremendous flavours. With a menu that changes weekly, the only constant is the mouth-watering quality of each dish, and the care with which it is prepared. Gorgonzola soufflé with walnut sauce ($11), spaghetti with smoked pork cheek ($12) and chocolate bunet ($8) are a few things to save space for, or you might want to dine ‘alla famiglia’ and have either five courses for $40 or nine courses for $59, all based on what’s made fresh that day. The nine-course option includes their made-to-order risotto.

Les Faux Bourgeois
663 East 15 Ave
604-873-9733
lesfauxbourgeois.com

Small, dark and often noisy — this may not sound like an ideal Valentine’s spot, but appearances can be deceiving. This honest little bistro churns out some of the most authentic, rustic French fare in the city, at prices that will keep both your heart and wallet happy.
Don’t miss the caramelized onion puff pastry tart with crème fraîche, ricotta and lardons ($10) or the Toulouse sausage with mashed potatoes and fig compote ($16). With over a dozen reds by the glass and almost as many whites, you can mix and match all night long, before finishing with the lemon cream tart ($6).

Hub goes back to basics

Anya Levykh, for Metro Vancouver — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 05:00:00 -0400

Hub
1165 Mainland St.
Vancouver
604-696-0400
hubrestaurant.ca

Signature Drink: Russell Pale Ale

Signature Dish: Fish and chips

Rating: **
Dinner & drinks for 2: $80

The past year has seen a number of fine dining restaurants rebooting as lower-priced and more casual ventures (Maenam, Refuel, et al), but until last month, I had never heard of a casual chain location rebooting as a still-more-casual independent restaurant. The owner of the Yaletown location of Browns Social House suddenly decided to jump the chain ship and re-opened virtually overnight as Hub Restaurant and Lounge, a place that offers a “back to basics” menu in a room of “casual sophistication.” Hmm, this didn’t sound that much different from Browns, but I was curious—how much more “casual” could a casual operation get?

Over several visits, the picture became clear. The room itself is almost identical to the former chain, with the same brick walls, raised black vinyl booths, and high tops. The addition of some macho photography—a close-up of the Charging Bull statue in Bowling Green park, NY, and some football players in a huddle—and some extra flat screens over the bar screams “sports bar” more than “casual restaurant,” or “lounge,” for that matter, but hey, Yaletown is profuse with female-centered décor, so a little change-up might not be a bad thing.

The menu seems to follow the tried-and-true concept of trying to jazz up simple dishes with expensive ingredients. Lobster wings ($13), for instance. These were basically four small tails, still attached to their shells, which where then coated in batter and quickly deep-fried. Most of the batter ends up on the shell, which seemed a bit of a waste, but the flesh was not overcooked and the portion was fair. Fairly tasty, in fact, although I felt the side of melted butter was overkill.

Mac and cheese ($15) was heavily loaded up with gruyère, parmigiano and aged cheddar. The cheeses almost completely overpowered the flavour of the star ingredient—crab, in this case—this despite the sizable amount of the latter in the dish. Cheesy pasta is always tasty (as any three-year-old will attest to), but a little less dairy in this case would have given the crab a stronger presence. Halibut and chips ($16) was a less interesting dish. The fish, while moist and fairly firm, lacked flavour. The coleslaw, on the other hand, was rather nice, with a hint of black pepper livening things up.

Another visit saw us trying more traditional fare, namely the bacon and cheese burger ($14). I decided to substitute the fries for the poutine (extra $2), while my friend went with the regular offering. Turns out there wasn’t much difference. Our burgers were well-cooked and piled high, and the fries tasted okay on their own, but too much gravy and not enough cheese curds didn’t make for something memorable.

The one dish we truly and unequivocally enjoyed was from the dessert list. The chocolate-chip “pazookie” ($8) was electrifyingly delicious. This “pizza-meets-cookie” concept is quite popular in certain regions of the U.S. (where it’s usually called “pizookie”), but I have yet to see a local restaurant try it until now. Served straight from the oven in its own little cast iron pan and topped with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream, it felt like a child’s version of clafoutis and caused a bit of a spoon-skirmish to get the last bite.

This restaurant won’t cause any waves, but it will probably do nicely for those looking to watch some sports, down a beer, and fuel up at the same time.

Innisikillin’s Single Vineyard Series Shows Promise
Meritage is becoming an increasingly popular blend in B.C. and Innisikillin’s 2006 Dark Horse Meritage is a good one to try. This one combines 78% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon for a nose of cherry and chocolate over an oaky-vanilla palate infused with plum. BCLS $24.99.

Chinese New Year at Wild Rice
February 13 marks the beginning of the Year of the Tiger. Celebrate at Wild Rice (117 West Pender St) during the first two weeks of the Chinese New Year with the four-course Year of the Tiger menu for $40. wildricevancouver.com

Valentine’s Day Dining
Le Gavroche (1616 Alberni St) is offering a special five-course Valentine’s Day menu for $85 ($125 with optional wine pairings). Options include duck confit wrapped in wild boar bacon, braised short rib, roasted chestnut soup, sablefish and scallops and rose petal crème brulée. Call 604-685-3924.

Refuel (1944 West 4 Ave) is offering a three- or four-course Valentine’s menus from February 12 to 14. Options include lemon risotto, crispy Humboldt squid, roasted bone marrow, fresh local oysters and peanut-chocolate parfait. Call 604-288.7905.

Olympic Hours
Cobre Nuevo Latino (cobrerestaurant.com) and Deacon’s Corner (deaconscorner.ca) will both be open for lunch and dinner (as well as breakfast at Deacon’s Corner) from February 13 to 28. Visit the restaurant websites for details.

Fishworks goes local, but Ocean Wise isn't always enough

Anya Levykh, for Metro Canada — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Fishworks
91 Lonsdale
North Vancouver
778-340-3449
www.fishworks.ca

Signature Drink: A Little to the Left
Signature Dish: Scallops with Risotto
Rating: ** 1/2
Dinner & drinks for 2: $95

There is much to be said for restaurants that join with the Ocean Wise program in support of local, sustainable seafood. Not only is it better for the environment, the fish populations and the local people who make their living catching it, but it also tastes a damn sight better than the frozen fish sticks in aisle seven.

So it was with a happy sigh that I saw Fishworks open up in lower Lonsdale several months ago. Considering its proximity to the water and commercial fishing docks, the North Shore has a surprisingly small number of seafood dining establishments, and all are on the higher end of the fine dining market. Fishworks, on the other hand, has been touting itself as a more reasonably-priced, yet still slightly upscale, alternative.

At first glance, one tends to think they’re not lying. The room is simple and well laid out, with light wood floors and tabletops, white walls hung with black-and-white images of Lonsdale from a century ago, and some subtle brown swirls that break up any hint of monotony.

My first qualm came when we were seated at a tiny, round table for two that looked smaller than the tables at Starbucks. I noticed the other tables in the room were well-spaced, and a large, bare expanse of floor was quite prominent. Plenty of space, I would think, for a slightly larger—and perhaps more angular—table. Once our sparkling water, bread and butter arrived, the menus had to stick out at right angles, and mine was promptly knocked by a server carrying drinks to the next table. “Oops!” he said cheerfully, as bread spilled over the table. (We put the bread back in the basket, but no offer to replace it with a fresh basket was forthcoming.)

We decided to share the prawn cocktail ($9) to start. I tend to steer clear of such dishes, as they are often overcooked and under-represented for the price point. But the price was excellent and the server’s assurance that these were fresh, large specimens seduced us into giving them a try. I just wish I could say I enjoyed them. While obviously fresh, large and of good quality, they were also significantly overcooked, and inconsistently chilled. One side of the glass was warmish, while the other was barely cool. It was also a little unsettling to have them arrive so fast. Don’t get me wrong, prompt service is a delight not to be scoffed at, but when a server takes your order, walks to the kitchen and immediately (and I do mean immediately—try just over 10 seconds) comes back with an intricately laid out glass of crustaceans, vinaigrette-infused greens and an olive oil-soaked cherry tomato, one can’t but think of the word pre-made.

The lobster bisque with crème fraîche ($7) was a huge improvement. A warm, generous, rich soup, heavily impregnated with the main ingredient and topped with a healthy dollop of cream, this was one of the best I’ve tasted in some time. The Dungeness crab cakes ($12) were not spectacular, but were nice enough, with little filler and the usual red pepper flavouring and crusted exterior. The basil aioli it was supposed to come with was nonexistent, but it could have been soaked up by the salad dressing (same one as in the cocktail).

Mains like the Qualicum Beach scallops with risotto ($24) were unremarkable. A healthy portion of plain grilled scallops topped something that was not creamy enough to be risotto, and the “crispy” bacon was decidedly limp. Lobster cannelloni ($18) were more about spinach than seafood, and the Queen Charlotte sablefish ($25), marinated in sake, was moist and flavourful, but the accompanying shitake mushrooms were underdone.

It’s lovely to see a menu utilize so many local, sustainable and seasonal ingredients. It would be even lovelier if they were prepared with the same care that went into their selection.

Message in a Bottle…

The Olympics may be just around the corner, but to local foodies and oenophiles, The Vancouver Playhouse 2010 International Wine Festival (April 19 to 25, 2010) is the event to salivate over. This clever press kit arrived on my desk the other day, reminding me that this year’s theme regions are New Zealand and Argentina, and the global focus is Rosé. Tickets go on sale Feb. 2. Visit playhousewinefest.com for details.

Top Shelf

On Jan. 31 at 6:30 p.m., Cru Restaurant will be holding Haiti Earthquake Relief Fundraising Dinner. Cru staff are volunteering their time, and the restaurant is donating all food and beverages for this four-course dinner. 100 per cent of the proceeds from the dinner will be donated to the relief efforts in Haiti. $100 donation per person. www.cru.ca

Dining Out

Doing the Foxtrot
Fraîche Restaurant (2240 Chippendale Rd, West Van) is teaming up with Naramata’s Foxtrot Vineyards for a five-course winemaker’s dinner on Jan. 25 at 6:30 p.m. $125 includes sparkling wine reception, all wine pairings and dinner, including seared sablefish with veal cheek ravioli, lamb tournedos and Okanagan goat cheesecake. Call 604-925-7595 to reserve.

Mangere, Bere, Vivere
On January 31 at 6 p.m., Mangia e Bevi Ristorante (2222 Marine Dr, West Van) will be holding their annual fundraising dinner for the B.C. Children’s Hospital and the Oncology Clinic at Lion’s Gate Hospital. $95 includes four courses with wine pairings. The restaurant is also offering a three-course menu for $40 until the end of the month, and will donate proceeds to both hospital’s oncology departments. Call 604-922-8333 for reservations.

Food in Brief

La Brasserie (1091 Davie St), the popular Franco-German bistro, is now open for lunch Tuesday to Friday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Hart House Restaurant (6664 Deer Lake Ave, Bby) has named former sous chef Kris Kabush as their new Executive Chef.

Successful re-boot at Refuel

Anya Levykh, for Metro Canada — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:00:00 -0400

Refuel
1944 West 4 Ave.
Vancouver
604-288-7905
www.refuelrestaurant.com

Rating: **** 1/2
Dinner & drinks for 2: $80
Signature dish: Buttermilk fried chicken
Signature drink: R & B Ale

When Fuel Restaurant announced back in December that they would be closing and re-opening as a lower-priced, more casual operation, I was saddened, but not surprised. 2009 was a tough year for restaurants, and this was not the first restaurant reboot I had witnessed (see Maenam, L’Altro Buca). I was worried about how well Fuel’s original concept — local, sustainable, artisanal, West Coast —would translate on the new comfort-based menu at Refuel.

Worrying always was highly over-rated.

A handful of visits over the holidays revealed the same, thoughtful attention to provenance and quality that had won owners Tom Doughty and Robert Belcham so many dining awards in the past. The chicken was still Polderside, the pork was still Sloping Hills and the charcuterie was still Belcham’s own in-house brand, The Cure. All of the local suppliers, in fact, are in evidence on the new menu. The changes are in the content, not the quality, as in a little less foie, a little more deep-fry.

A long list of snacks, sides and starters includes hits like spiced pork ribs ($7.50), devilled eggs ($3), and the absolutely divine housemade butter ($0.50). Ox tongue salad ($11.50) may sound strange, but the proof is on the palate, where the meat melts away before you even start chewing on the watercress.

Buttermilk fried chicken ($18) was a staple from the old menu, and happily survived the change. It’s just as moist on the inside and crispy on the outside as it ever was, and the portion doesn’t seem to be noticeably smaller — in fact, I could swear the pieces are a bit bigger. It’s not a fancy plate, but the fresh coleslaw, and housemade gravy and biscuit — the latter with the merest hint of jalapeno — is just enough to leave you feeling extremely comfortable.

It also felt very comfortable eating with my hands in the new room. As much as I enjoyed the chicken at Fuel, the formality of the old room always made me feel slightly squeamish about finger food. And there is something inherently wrong about using a fork and knife on fried chicken. The redone space, however, is just casual enough that it is eminently appropriate — even required — to go the greasy finger route. The atmosphere now is definitely more in tune with laissez-faire Kitsilano, as the relaxed attitudes and frequent loud laughter of the other guests indicated.

The dry-aged beef burger ($14.50), topped with cheddar and bacon, was another moist and massive mouthful that left my friend feeling slightly burp-ish (in a good way). The fries are cooked in beef tallow, and reminded me of the salty perfection of McDonald’s fries a couple of decades ago, before they switched to vegetable oils. Crispy Humboldt squid ($9.50) was tasty and topped with lime, fresh cilantro and shredded green chilis — the last, however, were used in such massive quantities as to have me reaching frantically for the water several times. When I mentioned this to a staff member, they let me know that I could always ask for less heat — or even none — on future orders, but I still would have appreciated advance warning.

Another visit had us trying the lemon risotto ($10), an unusually simple dish garnished with shallots, parsley, and not much else — and it works.

Desserts are all $6.50, and included a lovely apple-pear crostada that was much elevated by the housemade sour cream ice cream. Our favourite, however, was the glass of peanut and chocolate parfait, layered with bits of honeycomb.

Born-again Refuel is just what the neighbourhood needed — a casual, relaxed bistro of excellent quality and value-driven price points.

Reboot successful.

New releases

The Marlborough region of New Zealand is temperate maritime region on the South Pacific, and home to varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and, notably, Sauvignon Blanc. Cloudy Bay’s 2008 Sauvignon Blanc combines a nose of passionfruit, pineapple and fresh basil with a palate of capsicum and green olive. Light acidity and a hint of lime make this a perfect match with Asian fare or freshly steamed mussels. BCLS $35.

Dining out

Gastown’s Long Table
The Irish Heather (212 Carrall St.) is going strong with its Long Table Series. Enjoy a different entrée with a glass of red wine or beer for $15 or $17 every night in January and February. Full menu details available at ltsmenu.blogspot.com. Reservations by email only at sean@irishheather.com.

Trio of Tasting Menus
C Restaurant and Raincity Grill will all be offering three-course prix fixe dinners for $38 from Jan. 21 to 31. Nu will be offering a $28 option during the same time, and three-course lunch for $19.90. Visit www.kambolis.com for menu details and reservations.

Vancouver's best new restaurants of 2009

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 08:02:15 -0400

A down economy, scared-cheap clientele, and the looming threat of the HST. The restaurant industry has had better years than 2009. And although the number of restaurant openings last year can’t rank next to the full-bodied vintage of 2007 (when more than 200 new dining spots appeared within a single year), there were enough new stars on the horizon to keep our hopes moderately high and our palates very happy. Here are my picks for the top 10 new restaurants of 2009.

10. Society
No need to wait for the fair this summer. Glowbal Restaurant Group has created a sleek, chic funhouse, where drinks like the Candy Collins ($7) utilize the in-house cotton candy machine, and the ubiquitous bread basket has been replaced by gargantuan Kobe beef meatballs wrapped in bacon and slathered in tomato fondue. The chandeliers are worth a visit all by themselves, but you’ll return for dishes like mac-and-cheese balls ($8) and the shake-n-bake chicken ($17).
1257 Hamilton St. | 604-629-8800 | www.society-grg.ca

9. Habit
Phoenix rising might be a good descriptor for this restaurant. After a catastrophic fire in December of 2008, Habit literally rose from the ashes last fall with a new look, a new menu, and a loyal new following. The dark, sexy room is perfectly in keeping with its South Main environs, and the menu is so casual that you even make your own martinis (ingredients are served bento-box style). Brie-and-carrot perogies ($11) and salt cod cakes with wild rice-sunchoke pancakes ($12) are just a couple of reasons to drop by.
2610 Main St. | 604-877-8582 | www.habitlounge.ca

8. Nook
This little hole-in-the-wall on the edge of Denman says “comfort” from the minute you step onto the tiled floor and take in the warm red of the banquets and bar chairs. The Italian trattoria menu is equally cozy, and is perfectly matched by the almost-exclusively-Italian wine list that offers practically everything by the glass, and all bottles under $75. The ricotta pizza ($14) with roasted tomatoes, olives and onions is a treat, as is the chicken liver crostini ($6) with capers and deep-fried onion threads.
781 Denman St. | 604-568-4554 | www.nookrestaurant.ca

7. L’Altro Buca
Chef Andrey Durbach has long been known to Vancouver diners for his food at Pied-à-Terre, La Buca and Parkside. When the latter experienced the first shocks of the recession, Durbach and partner Chris Stewart shut it down and “rebooted” as L’Altro Buca, with La Buca’s menu, but a whole new vibe—not to mention lower price points. Green pea and mint agnolotti with braised lamb cheeks ($19.5) is a customer favourite, as is the housemade duck prosciutto with sliced scallops ($12.50).
1906 Haro St | 604-683-6912 | www.altrobuca.ca

6. Market by Jean-Georges
It’s a sign of the times that a superstar chef like Jean-Georges Vongerichten decided to open a restaurant here rather than in Toronto. Market, at the swank Shangri-La Hotel, is a drop-dead, knock-you-off-your-feet, shimmery-gold bombshell of a room, yet the price point is better than some places with more pretension and less substance. The menu is highly local and über-inventive and the wine list is surprisingly accessible for such a high-end joint. Soy-glazed short ribs with apple-jalapeno puree ($24) and the black truffle pizza with fontina cheese ($15) are must-tries.
1128 West Georgia St | 604-695-1115 | www.shangri-la.com

5. Refuel
Another example of a restaurant “reboot,” Refuel is the new, lower-priced incarnation of chef Robert Belcham’s and sommelier Tom Doughty’s fine-dining Fuel. (This one is so new, in fact, that you’ll be reading my review next week.) The new Pacific Northwest menu doesn’t sacrifice on quality or provenance, despite the lower price points, and the ingredients continue to be sourced from local suppliers. Buttermilk-fried Polderside chicken ($18) and dry-aged Pemberton Meadows beef burger ($14.50) are just a couple stand-outs.
1944 West 4 Ave | 604-288-7905 | www.refuelrestaurant.com

4. Au Petit Chavignol
Charcuterie has experienced quite the renaissance over the past couple of years, but it was this “little goat” that elevated the craft into edible art. The small, poured-concrete room is surprisingly inviting and warm, as is the stand-out wine list, with its endless by-the-glass and cheese-friendly selections. It’s not just the duck rillettes ($12) that make the buds water, however, as the kitchen is fully operational and turns out wonders like the croque madame ($11) and the gruyere-and parmesan-crusted mac ‘n’ cheese ($9).
843 East Hastings St | 604-255-4218 | www.aupetitchavignol.com

3. Maenam
The final (and best) reboot on this list, Maenam is the second child of chef Angus An, born in the former Gastropod space. Instead of the former molecular gastronomy-influenced menu, Maenam burst forth with fresh Thai flavours and excellent price points in a room made for loud laughter and happy eating. The housemade naam ($8)—fried, fermented Thai sausages with garlic and chili threads—are a carnivorous wonder, as is the Muslim oxtail soup ($14 for two) with orange zest and Vietnamese mint.
1938 West 4 Ave | 604-730-5579 | www.maenam.ca

2. Mis Trucos
Despite the name, there are no tricks on chef/owner Kris Barnholden’s menu, just good Mediterranean-based eats served tapas-style. The room speaks of warmer climes as well, with its bright windows, white palette, and light wood tabletops. All wines are available by the glass, and $8 cocktails like the cohombro o pepino or sangria go down much too easily. Don’t miss the piperade of Serrano ham with slow-cooked egg ($7) or the white truffle and lobster risotto ($14).
1141 Davie St | 604-566-3960 | mistrucos.ca

1. The Pourhouse
What do you get when you mix two bartenders (Jay Jones, Brian Grant) with a chef (Chris Irving)? A winning combination, that’s what. Gastown’s newest dining spot features a retro, 1930s speakeasy feel. Is it a coincidence that this was the era of the Great Depression? Maybe not. A solid drinks program that leans on bourbon and gin is bolstered by the kind of down-home food we haven’t seen since our childhood—think campfire trout ($18) and roasted tomato soup with grilled cheese ($10). The room marries old-world class (white linen tablecloths, heavy silver cutlery) with new world comfort (check out the big-ass bar front and centre), and I have seen dockworkers as comfortable here as Yaletown swanksters. I’ve gone back several times for the grilled squid ($12), large, tender, juicy steaks topped with garlic, chili threads and fresh green onion. That and the cold rice pudding with caramelized figs make for one outstanding house where the food is anything but “poor.”
162 Water St | 604-568-7022 | www.pourhousevancouver.com

Some of the year's finest culinary experiences

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:02:15 -0400

For my last column of 2009 (I’ll be back on Jan. 7, 2010), I thought I would compile a little list of my favourite tasting experiences from the past year. Despite the small number of restaurant openings this year, there have been many pleasant new discoveries, and both new and established chefs who have exercised their ingenuity to create some truly remarkable culinary experiences. In no particular order, here are my most memorable tastes of 2009.

Gastown’s newest addition, The Pourhouse, boasts a simple menu of old-fashioned comfort, but it’s their neon squid—served in thick, juicy, scored slabs of steak, and topped with crispy slivers of garlic, fresh green onion and chili threads—that steals the show.

The Pourhouse is also the only restaurant to make it on this list twice -- the second is for one of their desserts, the cold rice pudding with warm, caramelized Mission figs. This is a study in contrasts—the chilled pudding against the warm fruit, the sweet caramel on the milky cream, and the coarser texture of the rice against the smooth plumpness of the figs. The extra hit of Maker’s Mark doesn’t hurt either.

In the West End, Nook Restaurant’s chicken liver crostini might be an odd thing to find on an Italian menu, but your Jewish grandmother’s pâté never tasted so good. Served on massive slices of toast, and topped with capers and deep-fried onion threads, it’s the perfect treat for the soul.

The Italian’s answer to beer nuts, Campagnolo’s crispy ceci are worth a visit to this north Main spot all on their own. Like the rest of the menu, simplicity speaks volumes. The deep-fried chickpeas are tossed with mint, citrus and pepperoncini, and make the perfect snack while watching the football games (European, not American) in the lounge at the back.

DB Bistro Moderne is a lively spot, great for cocktails and holiday meetings, but it’s chef Stephane Istel who brings the recipes of Daniel Boulud to life, with his simple elegant approach to French bistro fare. The chicken oyster fricassee is a dish I have gone back for again and again. Seared chicken oysters, button mushrooms and escargots top a mound of hazelnut spätzle. Need I say more?

Breka Bakery on Fraser St. may not be a strictly Jewish establishment, but their cinnamon rugelach is some of the best in the city, and is made from cream cheese dough that turns to butter in the mouth.

The modern Vietnamese fare served at Chau Kitchen & Bar on Robson is clean, comforting and fresh, as is evident in the lemongrass chicken rice paper rolls. Fresh greens, aromatic chunks of grilled chicken, tender noodles, and crunchy strips of rice paper all combine into a texturally-rich wrap. The apple vinaigrette dip is just icing.

Au Petit Chavignol, the East Hastings brainchild of the folks from Les Amis du Fromage, is big on the charcuterie, so it’s no wonder that one of their star dishes is a rillette of duck served with a sweet onion jam, so rich and dense that you can only spread it thickly on the accompanying baguette. Yeah, it’s a hard life.

Irashai Grill may be about contemporary Japanese fare, but the aji sashimi—a Japanese mackerel—is pure, classic sushi heaven. The best part however, is when the head and tail that decorate your plate are taken away to be split and deep-fried to a salty crisp. Domo arigato.

Maenam’s Muslim oxtail soup is a clear, clean, aromatic broth, loaded with julienned vegetables, Vietnamese mint, orange zest and a large dollop of braised oxtail. Big enough for two, it’s the perfect slurp on a cold day.

Coast Restaurant is known for their fresh and inventive seafood, but it was a sampler from the dessert platter that really blew me away. Cheesecake lollipops are a heady blend of Tahitian vanilla and white chocolate, with a crushed candy crust. For post-sushi dessert, there’s nothing better.

Chef/owner Kris Barnholden is working some major magic in his kitchen at Mis Trucos, and I do mean magic, since he doesn’t actually have a hood fan or grill, so induction cooking is where it’s at. The white ruffle risotto with lobster and crème fraîche is one of the best things I’ve tasted in years and will hopefully have a long shelf life on the seasonal menu.

You wouldn’t think a sandwich could be that memorable, but the Mexican tortas at Las Tortas on Cambie are worth the praise. My favourite version is the slow-roasted pork thigh, which is piled high onto a crusty telera roll—baked specially for the restaurant—along with tomato, cabbage, pickled onions, jalapenos, guacamole, refried beans, butter and mayo.

In a different part of town, the small, tasty and authentic Mexican street-style tacos at La Taqueria use handmade soft corn shells, local meats, and Ocean Wise seafood. The Pemberton Meadows beef tongue is killer, and at only $2.50, just might be the best deal in the city.

Who needs a bread basket? No one, says Society Dining Lounge. Instead of starch, guests are greeted with a gargantuan Kobe beef meatball, wrapped in bacon and slathered in tomato “fondue.” These are so good most people go on to order the pasta-paired version.

La Brasserie’s suckling pig with sauerkraut is a tender, fatty, mouthful of crispy-edged pork, but it’s the schupfnudel—tender, fried fingers of potato pasta—that cause the glands to salivate.

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery has become famous for their artisan preserves. This year’s latest offerings include the Turkish fig with D’oro walnut wine—a spread that works especially well over some seared pork belly—as well as the lighter pink grapefruit with champagne.

The truffled potato gnocchi at L’Altro Buca might not be the best gnocchi on Earth, but they’re pretty damn close. Fried, herbed and puffy like eyes after a raucous night, not even the accompanying chicken can outshine them.

Peter Fong, owner of Ganache Patisserie in Yaletown, tends to create chocolate on a grand scale, and his bûche au chocolat Yule log is no exception. Chocolate sponge, chocolate pastry mousseline, sour cherries and chocolate buttercream make for a rather nice way to celebrate the season.

There are times for political correctness, and then there are times to eat with gusto. Chef Warren Geraghty of West makes a foie gras terrine layered with goat cheese, apples and quince jelly that is definitely a moment for gusto. You can stop drooling now.

Market by Jean-Georges attracts a certain segment of Vancouver’s well-heeled hipsters, but everyone falls in love with the black truffle pizza. Poached and puréed truffles and Fontina cheese are spread over a light crust and topped with a soy-truffle frisée salad.

Diva at the Met is known for the elegant cuisine created by chef Dino Renaerts, but one of his best dishes is the not-so-humble DC burger. Braised short ribs, seared foie gras, wild mushroom ragout and truffle aioli make for an experience that doesn’t even require fries (although the house made root chips and onion rings are pretty fine).

Wild Rice has long been a haven for contemporary, dairy-free Chinese cuisine. The won ton soup is an absolute wonder, with its clear, aromatic chicken broth and light dumplings filled with Sloping Hill’s free-run pork.

The humble sandwich is in high demand, thanks to the aftershocks of the recession, and Ba Le’s bánh mì (Vietnamese subs) fit the bill perfectly. The Vietnamese bacon is stuffed with fresh vegetables, pâté, mayo, pickled carrots and daikon, and chili peppers and rings in at under $3.50.

Choosing a favourite place for dim sum is a rather subjective experience, and I tend to go where individual dishes stand out. Continental Seafood’s deep fried squid is definitely a keeper and worth the trip to Richmond.

Tips on tipping for the holidays

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:02:15 -0400

So you’re all excited about the upcoming dinner at (fill in name here) Restaurant. Lots of booze, lots of food, good times with good friends and, at the end of the night, you all split the bill and head home with a merry heigh-ho. It might not be so merry for the restaurant, however, if you forget to factor in tax and tip, which happens more than you might think.

“People often just add up the individual items that they ordered, and forget to include the five per cent GST and ten per cent liquor tax,” says Sebastien le Goff, sommelier and head of operations for Cibo Trattoria at the Moda Hotel. The result? That stack of cash that’s left on the table doesn’t even cover the bill, let alone a tip for your server. Hence, the automatic gratuity that’s added to the bill for larger groups. You’re less likely to forget the tip when it’s already included.

But why is it so high, you ask? Well, when you consider the specialized knowledge that a server in a fine-dining establishment brings to your table (pun intended), that 17 or 18 per cent suddenly doesn’t seem like so much for someone who can explain not only the details of any dish on the menu, but also the best wines to match with it and the provenance of the ingredients.

Also, explains le Goff, “that tip isn’t just for the server. There is usually a tip-out, so some goes to the seating host, the busboy, the dishwasher, the sommelier—all the support staff that help the server do his job.”

So, in the spirit of doing right by your fellow man or woman, here are some do’s and don’ts on tipping over the holidays.

The verbal tip. If you’ve received excellent service from someone, don’t just leave them with superlatives and forget to leave an equally stimulating tip. The bulk of a server’s income comes from the tips they earn, not the minimum-wage salary, so not leaving a good tip after praising them all night is like a slap in the face. That’s not to say you shouldn’t compliment your server if they’re doing a great job, just make sure the buck doesn’t stop there.

Gift cards and coupons. If you are receiving a discount on the meal, calculate the tip on the pre-discount amount. Same with gift cards. Just because you received fifty per cent off or didn’t pay cash for the meal, doesn’t mean your server got to work less. Tip accordingly.

Not happy with something? Whether it’s an overdone steak or a drink that took too long to arrive, state your concerns promptly to your server, and give them the chance to make it right. If you don’t like how something tastes, that’s probably not the server’s fault, but he can help you find something more to your taste. If you’re not happy with the service you’re receiving, ask to speak with a manager. Always be courteous and respectful—remember the old adage about honey and vinegar?

The four-hour dinner. Your dinner started at seven and you’re all still there four hours later, drinking, carousing and having a good time. If the server hasn’t been trying to hurry you out the door, add a little extra to your tip. Restaurants usually rely on having a minimum of two full seatings each night, so if your party stays twice as long (and it’s not due to slow service), then say thank you for the extra time and plunk down a few extra dollars.

AWOL Alert. We’ve all experienced those times when something goes wrong at the last minute (babysitter cancels, car breaks down) and that dinner reservation must go the way of Indo-French fusion. So pick up the phone and call. The restaurant is not only holding a table for you, they are also turning away other people who would like to dine there that evening. Even if it’s five minutes before you’re supposed to arrive, call and let the restaurant know. Trust me, there will be no hard feelings. Rather, they will appreciate the fact that you called at all, because most people don’t.

Happy Dining!

Mission Hill’s New Releases

Mission Hill’s Reserve series has some great new releases in time for the holidays. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.99 BCLS) has rich, earthy, berry notes, great with roast lamb. The 2008 Riesling Icewine ($59.99 BCLS) has a sweet honey-and-citrus fragrance, with a delicate finish. Enjoy on its own or poured over vanilla ice cream.

Top Shelf

Operation—Cookies for Kids is in full force, and those Vista D’oro tins full of holiday treats from the best restos in town go on sale Dec. 10. Minimum donation $50, with 100 per cent of proceeds going toward B.C. Children’s Hospital. Call 604-514-3539 for details.

Dining Out

Coast Restaurant (1054 Alberni St) is now offering fresh West Coast oysters for one dollar each between 3:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. daily. Or enjoy a dozen peel-and-eat shrimp for $12.

The Irish Heather (212 Carrall St) is offering two Christmas day options. A full Irish breakfast for $15 and a three-course dinner with a bottle of Granville Island Lions Winter Ale for $25. Vegetarian options available for both menus. Email sean@irishheather.com for reservations.

Food in Brief

Chambar has hired Sebastien Lagors as their new GM and Robert Stelmachuk (Le Crocodile, Market by Jean-Georges) as the new sommelier.

CinCin has hired Sarah McCauley (Zuma, London and Blue Water Café) as its new Wine Director.

Simple dim sum from the other side of Richmond

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 08:02:15 -0400

Continental Seafood
#150-11700 Cambie Rd.
Richmond
604-278-6331

Signature Drink: Tea, of course
Signature Dish: Deep-fried Squid

Rating: ***
Lunch & drinks for two: $40

With all the hype over the Canada Line, restaurants on the west side of Richmond have seen a sharp increase in diners from Vancouver. The east side of Richmond, however, is not bereft of likely haunts, which can often be found in the most unlikely places.

Take Continental Seafood. Located in a large strip mall at the corner of Cambie and No. 5 Roads, the unassuming storefront and bland interior are almost indistinguishable from hundreds of other such establishments throughout Richmond. Its attraction lies solely with the food, specifically, the dim sum luncheon. You can come here for dinner—the Peking Duck ($40) is killer—and work off the calories at the same time with the nightly karaoke and ballroom dancing, but my money is still on the day menu.

The old-fashioned pushcart service makes menus rather unnecessary—in fact, I didn’t see one until my third visit. The prices are pretty typical for dim sum in Richmond, ranging from $3 to $5.75 depending on the size and whether it’s a “deluxe” item. Three of us could feast like kings and walk away paying $20 each, or on more sparing days, a moderately-filling meal saw us each drop $10 and change. It’s wise to come early, before noon on weekdays, as this place fills up fast with local residents and workers from the surrounding industrial parks.

The service is lightning fast and efficient, empty bowls and dishes were removed promptly, and water glasses and tea pots were constantly being refilled, without us having to ask even once. There is no attempt to up-sell here—if you want something, fine, and if not…whatever.

Over the course of four visits, the group favourite was hands-down the deep-fried squid. Chinese cuisine tends to avoid tentacles, and these are beautifully thick, juicy bars, loosely tossed in coarse salt while hot, and sprinkled with the lightest amount of chili flakes. Pork dumplings were just okay, but the same balls with scallops on top were excellent. Shrimp rice rolls were also delicious—if a little drowned by the sauce. It is poured at the table, however, so if you’re quick, you can tell them to go easy on the soy. Crab claw balls were another group favourite—large, puffy, deep-fried spheres were speared with a small claw, and served with chili oil for dipping.

Desserts weren’t exceptional to my taste, but standbys like mango pudding and red bean cake seemed popular among our fellow diners, as well as a green-and-white pudding that I never got around to trying.

The food here is not the stuff of culinary legend, but for a solid, comforting dim sum lunch—at a reasonable price—it’s really quite nice.

Inniskillin’s New Releases

Just in time for the holidays, Inniskillin has released several new offerings from their small-lot Reserve and Discovery series. Winemaker Sandor Mayer seems to delight in experimenting with new grapes, and one of his most successful attempts is with Tempranillo, a black grape of Spanish origin. Mayer has created two versions from the 2007 vintage, a straight, medium-bodied red with notes of spicy oak and dark cherry ($29.99), and an ice wine version that boasts fresh apple, cherry and raspberry aromas ($99.99). Both available directly from the winery. inniskillin.com

Top Shelf

Bacio for a Cure
On Jan. 31, 2010, Mangia e Bevi Ristorante (2222 Marine Dr, W. Van) will be holding their third annual BACIO (Because a Cure is Obtainable) event in support of Lion’s Gate Oncology Clinic and B.C. Children’s Hospital Oncology Research. Tickets $95. www.mangiaebevi.ca

Dining Out

Gifts for Foodies
The Holy Trinity of Cookbooks? Perhaps, if you’re a fan of West, Blue Water Café and Araxi restaurants. (And if you’re not, you should be.) The three new releases are all available as a wrapped, inscribed set for $125. Order online at www.toptable.ca or at any of the restaurants.

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery is offering a special holiday package of their 2007 D’oro, a fortified, port-style wine, along with your choice of three of their artisanal preserves, for $90. Favourites are the Turkish Fig with Walnut Wine, Spiced Cranberry with Ice Wine, and Green Walnut with Grappa. Call 604-514-3539 or visit www.vistadoro.com.

Food in Brief

Refuel, the new incarnation of the late Fuel Restaurant at 1944 West 4 Ave, is now open and serving lunch and dinner daily.

Chef Wayne Martin, of Fraîche and Crave restaurants, has launched Heirloom Catering just in time for the holidays, with Chef Andrew Sward at the helm.

Society delivers haute cuisine in comfortable style

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 08:02:15 -0400

Society
1257 Hamilton St.
Vancouver
604-629-8800
society-grg.ca

Signature Drink: Candy Collins
Signature Dish: Lobster Gnocchi

Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90

In the interests of disclosure, let me confess that I was made, recognized—outed, in fact—on my first and (several) subsequent visits to Society. Glowbal Restaurant Group’s much-lauded—albeit annoying—habit of promoting—and rotating—from within, meant that I had encountered several of the staff, including the GM, at virtually every other restaurant within the organization.

It’s a smart move, really, taking your most experienced people and transplanting them to the new baby in the family as a way to nurture growth and ensure health. It’s just a bit problematic for the humble writer who tries to enter a restaurant unannounced and undiscovered—only to be greeted like a long-lost relative.

So, the service was—in a word—superb. Was that coloured perhaps by what I do? More than likely. But to give the restaurant its fair due, the level of service was the same at every table within my sight range, on every visit. Make of that what you will.

The interior is another visual gem from leading hospitality design firm, Box Interiors (Coast, Market by Jean-Georges). Shocking pink chandeliers, behemoth table lamps and ornately-sculpted—and very high—metal privacy screens create a round-the-clock sense of twilight that disorients the eyes in the way of a sudden emergence into strong daylight after a three-hour movie. With the current dismal outdoor scene, an escape to this warm, cocooned interior is a pleasant interlude, but I wonder what will happen when the sun comes round again. On a (hopefully) warm June day, will the lure of that dimly shadowed space be so alluring?

The food, on the other hand, is the stuff that mothers glory in—at least—mothers who have a penchant for using lobster, Kobe beef and truffle oil in copious amounts.

The quirky inventiveness of the menu shows itself in small things, like the complimentary, gargantuan Kobe meatballs that arrive at every table, one per guest, in lieu of bread. Wrapped in bacon and slathered in tomato sauce, it’s the Atkins answer to the traditional basket, and a damned tasty one at that.

We sampled several starters on the first visit. Buttermilk-battered squid ($10) was smaller in size than I would have liked, but there was no faulting the individual chunks of steak—no tentacles here, thank you—that went down very well with the red pepper aioli. Mac and cheese balls ($8) with were deep-fried, crusty exteriors around warm, creamy centers, with a hint of jalapeno. Margareta pizza ($13) with buffalo mozzarella was tasty, but large enough to work as a starter for three or a main for one very hungry person.

Lunch on a second visit included a shared order of onion rings ($7) in Stanley Park beer batter. We swapped these for the fries that came with the prime rib burger ($15), a thick slab of moist meat topped with bacon, caramelized onions and sundried tomato mayo.

Dinner another night saw me trying lobster gnocchi ($18), a rich compilation of large chunks of lobster, tarragon cream and parmesan crust. My friend’s main of Kurobuta pork chop ($19) with apple sauce was a beautiful, inch-high cut of meat, perfectly brined and almost fork tender. The crust, unfortunately, had a salt-lick worthy of the Dead Sea, creating some serious pucker. A quick comment to the server resulted in comped dishes and the offer to substitute with anything else, and a second run at this plate a few days later saw a huge improvement. Chalk it up to first-month jitters.

A side of deep-fried Brussels sprouts ($6) had a crisp, clean taste, despite their sojourn in the fryer, with a tinge of lemon that cut nicely through the fat.

The “junk food” dessert platter ($18) is on the house during the month of November, when you order two entrees. This is a child’s dream meal come to life in one sweet swoop. Salted caramel corn, cotton candy (thanks to the four-thousand-dollar machine in the kitchen), cupcakes, Ding dongs, ice cream sandwiches, an Oreo milkshake, doughnut holes, warm cookies and rice crispy squares make up one of the most playful plates I have yet to see.

The cotton candy makes another appearance, in the Candy Collins ($7). This sweeten-as-you-desire Tom Collins variant includes a topping of the spun stuff that you then press down into the drink, causing instant dissolution. A tiny straw allows for periodic tastes to monitor the sugar level. When you’ve reached your goal, just lift out the remaining fluff and enjoy. It’s not a serious drink, but then, Society is not a serious place. It’s a place to have a few frolics and share some fun food. And we all could use some of that these days, no?

Caution: Hendrick’s Gin Can Incite Lust

New York mixologist and Hendrick’s brand ambassador, Charlotte Voisey, was in town recently, giving cocktail demonstrations using the classic gin. Here’s her recipe for the “Lust” Rose 75.

1 oz Hendrick's Gin
½ oz fresh lemon juice
½ oz rose-infused simple syrup
4 oz sparkling rose wine

Combine lemon juice, rose-infused syrup and Hendrick's Gin over ice and stir. Strain into a champagne flute and add rose sparkling wine. Garnish with lemon peel and a cucumber slice.

Top Shelf

Burgundy is Back
Starting tomorrow, Marquis Wine Cellars (1034 Davie St) will be offering samples of the latest Burgundy releases every Friday during November and December. Tomorrow, try the 2006 Arnaud Ente Meursault and the Jean Yves Bizot Vosne Romanee Villes Vignes. marquis-wines.com

Dining Out

Immaculate Conception
On Dec. 8, the Refinery (1115 Granville St) will host an evening with Cask Strength, dedicated to the joys of whiskey and food. $100 includes five-course dinner with rare whiskey pairings and a whiskey cocktail by mixologist Lauren Mote. Call 604-687-8001 for more info.

Poplar Grove Wines
On December 2, Two Chefs and a Table (305 Alexander St) will hold their next Wine Drinker Series dinner, featuring the wines of Poplar Grove Winery. $65 includes five courses with wine pairings. Call 778-233-1303 for reservations.

Food in Brief
Local Public Eatery has opened in the old Malone’s space at Cornwall and Yew. Great view, but no word on the food yet.

Attention, Cheese Shoppers: Au Petit Chavignol is currently offering $100 gift cards for $90, until Dec. 15. Forget family and get these for yourself.

Recession-proof subs give exotic bang for the buck

Anya Levykh, Metro Vancouver — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:02:15 -0400

Ba Le Sandwich Shop
701 Kingsway
Vancouver
604-875-6322

Signature Drink: Pop
Signature Dish: Sandwiches, silly…

Rating: ****
Lunch & drinks for two: $10

The humble sandwich has been experiencing a bit of a multicultural renaissance of late. First came Mexican-based Las Tortas, with their refried beans and Sloping Hills pork, and La Taqueria, with their authentic street tacos and Pemberton beef. Then more upscale joints like The Pourhouse joined in, offering crusty breads stuffed with ground meats and loads of melted cheese. But where it all started—in Vancouver, at least—was with the humble bánh mì, a Vietnamese baguette made from wheat and rice, crusty on the outside, soft on the inside.

Bánh mì has also come to refer to the sandwich made with this bread. Thanks to the French occupation of Vietnam, this always includes pâté (usually pork) and mayonnaise, as well as pickled carrots and daikon, cucumbers, chili peppers and radishes. Sounds strange? Just wait until you try it.

The variety comes with the protein used. While roasted pork or Vietnamese sausage (made from boiled pork and potato starch) are more traditional, it’s common to find chicken, beef, ham and tofu varieties as well. And the best part about these sandwiches—apart from the taste, that is? The price. Unlike your typical Subway or Quizno's monstrosity, these hearty, spicy, fresh stacks of starchy goodness rarely push past the $5 mark, making for some serious bang for still-blighted wallets.

For my money, the best examples of bánh mì can be found on Vancouver’s East Side, notably at Ba Le Sandwich Shop. Despite the name (“ba le” translates as “Parisian”) and the “French Sandwiches” byline on the awning, these are wholly Vietnamese, with their contrasting flavours and textures of fresh and fried, spicy and sweet, crunchy and soft. All of the sandwiches are less than $3.50, and some vegetarian versions are $2.

The house special, simply ordered as “sandwich,” is full of Vietnamese sausage, fresh cucumber slices, cilantro and, of course, pâté. A meatball version is a little on the dry side, but the Vietnamese bacon is the queen bee of the lot, with crispy, curly chunks of porker blending beautifully with the pickled vegetables. The four of us were full after a sandwich each, so the caramel custards ($2.25) we shared were just gratuitous excess.

Even without a recession, a lunch bill for four people that stays under $20 is not something to disdain. With food this good, however, it’s just the icing on the big pork cake.

Going Green for the Holidays, Part 2

Bonterra Vineyards’ 2007 Syrah is a prime example of California’s Mendocino wine region. The Mediterranean climate offers an ideally long, slow growing season, despite the occasional extreme swings in temperature. This 97% Syrah—2% Petite Sirah [sic] blend also has a splash of Grenache, which emphasizes the fruit-forward qualities of the palate. Look for notes of black cherry and wild blackberry, with a slightly bitter vanilla finish. BCLS $21.99 ($19.99 from Nov. 29 to Feb. 28, 2010).

Top Shelf

DIY Wine Cellars

On Nov. 25, join Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks at Salt Tasting Room (45 Blood Alley) for an evening with Canadian wine authority and author Tony Aspler, who will discuss how to design, build, stock and manage a wine cellar. Tickets $75. Call 604-688-6755 for more info.

Dining Out

C-elebrate Joie
On Nov. 22 at 6 p.m., C Restaurant (1600 Howe St) will host a special dinner with Joie Farm Wines. Enjoy six courses with wine pairings in a dinner led by winemaker Michael Dinn and Chef Robert Clark. Tickets $110. Call 604-681-1164 for reservations.

Sake at Coast
On Nov. 22 and 29, enjoy a sake tasting dinner at Coast (1054 Alberni St). Restaurant Chef Mike Robbins and Sushi Chef Max Katsuno have created a five-course menu to complement a selection of premium sakes. $95 includes sake pairings. Call 604-685-5010 for reservations.

Food in Brief

Fuel Restaurant (1944 West 4 Ave) will close its doors after Nov. 29, re-opening Dec. 2 as a more casual Pacific Northwest incarnation.

Japa Dog will soon be moving to warmer climes—off the streets, and into the former Café S’il Vous Plait location at 530 Robson Street.